16v turbo hints....for anyone thinking of doing a swap

[USOPHUNKE]

ok if anyone is looking to do this swap here are a few cool things I found..and as I am finishing up the swap I thought I would do this before I start the next project.

1. saab turbo aluminum outpipe is a perfect fit with perfect bends for your turbo out pipe. crazy how clean it is and it has the fitting for your vacume and diverter right on it.....plus all ya have to do is polish it....

2. go buy stainless 8mm bolts from hiawatha in a bunch of lengths....and just replace all of the old ones as you go..they are cheap..look better and wont ever strip

3. dont buy an already made d.p. in the long run it is cheaper to just put it on and have a friend tack weld it...both of tem I bought did not fit.

4. go to yur local upull and snag an extra set of coolant hoses....you will need them before you are done.

5. electric fan...dont even waste time trying to fit the stock one....
2400 cfm ebay or summit....
summit was kinda a pita after waiting a week n a half i canceled my order and found the same one on ebay for 2 bucks more. new 10 inch will work great but 12 inch fits too

6.if you pull a engine for your 16v swap....keep all the cis hoses minus fuel...you may need a few random bits....

7. billit fuel rail is a crazy tight fit....push hard....and with bbm take off the brackets first...or it wont go on right.....you can waste hours messing with what will take 5 min....

8.zip tie your drive shafts up into place when you drop the engine....otherwise you have to pull the drivers ball joint.....

9. if you dont zip them up...wait till you drop the oilpan turn the wheel all the way right and jack the tranny side of the engine and the pass side will drop right in.

10. grab an extra distrib at the junk yard when your there on one of your trips...and grab the stoff that hooks your tranny up...takes a few min but get them when ya can....right now mine are gone and sombody beat me to the ones at the yard. what did I do with mine...hmmmmmm

more to come as i remember

[USOPHUNKE]

11. you need to run about 6 vacume lines...

a. bov
b mbc
c boost gauge
d. wastegate
e. map sensor
f. fpr

but the intake has one and if you use the sabb piping there is number 2.

you could spend between 50 and 100 bucks to get a vacume tree made out of billit and look really custom...or you can go get a vacume tree off almost any ford in plastic or metal depending on model and year. will look completly stock and can be mounted directly to your 16v head on the lower driverside where some old stuff was bolted... looks great and total cost. free the guys a upall didnt even care to charge me for it...

location on ford is on the firewall where the stock corrado coil is mounted....took about 0 seconds to remove two screws and cut off the vacume line that was on it,,,,

[USOPHUNKE]

one more hint....if you are going to do a 16v swap...

decide which tranny you plan to use first.. 020 or 02a then find the correct full swap that you can pull the two together. with all the tranny brakets and mounts.

example i found a doner gli for my 16v eng then had to go pull an 02a out of an passat. if i would have just found a passat in the first place life would have been alot easier. if your doing it in a rado.. get it out of a passat no question. everything matches up.

[USOPHUNKE]

rain tray removal, why do it. what do you lose what do you gain.

lose. stock wiper mounting spots..mounting for coil mounting for ecu lines

gain tons of room in your engine bay.... if you are doing a big turbo this is a must

you gain lower engine bay temps....the rain tray holds alot of heat in your bay that now will just push out.. gain freedom of movement...dropping the engine working on turbo, mounts is 1000 times easier....

removal.
1. get a hammer chisal drill with a 1/4 bit or bigger and a 90 degree drill too if you can..
2. drill out all the stop welds ...not all the way through both layers just the first and just slightly into the second.
3. take tin snips and cut rain tray in half right in middle ..its just easier to do half at a time...
4. place chisle behind raintray and hit down with hammer where all the stop drills are...one or two good wacks and they pop if still connected...if not they just pop right away.
will take ya prob an hour and a half the first time 45 min every other...

the results are amazing..I would not do a swap again and not do it....imop