View Full Version : Son of a...
blk.raddo
06-23-2006, 12:08 AM
I think I either need a new tie rod assembly or a new steering rack for my C and was hoping someone could lead me into the right direction.
Recently, when steering to the left a certain degree (like on a Thruway off/on ramp) it will steer smooth till about 45 degrees then it would kinda jump. I took a look while changing the oil I took a look around and the inner end of the passenger side tie rod (looks like a CV joint, kinda, except a b**ch to get too) is leaking.
Now, I'm hoping its a tie rod but with the fact of a leakage and with my need for power steering fluid from my earlier thread last week, my $186.32 is on the steering rack.
Please tell me I'm wrong... :-)
acke61
06-23-2006, 01:20 AM
go manual...find one from an old mkII with the steering knucle, direct replacement and one less thing to worry about...
lotar_6
06-23-2006, 09:03 AM
manual is a good idea. if you want to keep the power steering, I'm not sure if there is a rebuild kit or not. Either way, the rack has to come out of the car. How many miles on her? Just thinking that if you are going throught the trouble of yanking the rack, replacing the tie rod assemblies is a good idea. Cost more, but it'll eliminate the worries for a long time. Let us know what happens!
blk.raddo
06-23-2006, 09:37 AM
156K on the car. I'm not sure if I'd enjoy the maual. I've tried turning the wheel with the car off and it was a bit difficult. The tie rods are definitly a good idea if I'm going to hit the steering rack. They are not that bad. I'd rather be replading them than the rack :-)
Pretty positive its the rack though, right?
lotar_6
06-23-2006, 11:56 AM
with leaking... yeah, prolly a seal. That's why I wasn't sure if there is a "rebuild" kit for them... new seals basically.
blk.raddo
06-23-2006, 01:15 PM
Anyone done this before? I have a Bently so it would help. How much of a PITA is it?
lotar_6
06-23-2006, 02:13 PM
I have not done it, but it's not hard or easy... time consuming. gotta pop the tie rod ends, disconnect the hydraulics, but I'm not 100% on if you need to drop the sub frame to get the rack out. You can get to the bolts, but I dunno if there's room to get it out w/o dropping the SF. If not, then SF, sway, rear motor mount all need to be removed.
dunno if you're like me, but I'd then replace the ball joints and control arm bushings while it's all out to be sure to only have to align it once.
vBulletin® v3.8.1, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.