The cat may now come out of the bag...

[lotar_6]

ok, folks... I'm taking the plunge into unfamiliar waters. I found a hella deal on a used Vortech V2 E-trim (http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=8) supercharger!! I just couldn't pass it up. At least i waited until it was actually in my hands to say something. The bearings are great... NO shaft play and smooth rotation. The input shaft seal looks like it might need replacing, tho. I plan on polishing the compressor housing and painting the gear housing low gloss black... to match the engine.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3325/3196862082_96819e5e32.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3385/3196862130_2281b7695f.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3523/3196862160_a469b808af.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3124/3196017677_eae31526e3.jpg

so now the hunt for parts begins! I need everything!! My big problem now is money. I'm still holding my breath about the wife landing a FT position. Hopefully I'll be able to buy things here and there and get it ready for install before the autocross season... but I doubt it. There's just too much to find.

I want to start w/ a low boost (6-8 psi) set-up, but leave room for growth. This may be difficult for several reasons. The charger is capable of 17 psi at 1,150 cfm. That's a lot of air it can move. It came w/ a 3.6" pulley, but I was thinking a 3.25" to start. But, the 3.25" will put my charger near max impeller speed at 7k rpm. I'm reading the 3.25" pulley will net about 6-8 psi, but no data about the E-trim... only the S & SC trims. IDK yet.

I'll keep the stock compression for now, but I'll need to do something for fueling. Noah (DeckmanDubs) has been a huge help so far. He's telling me that anything over 700 cfm I should be using 42# injectors. I should probably do a 95mm MAF housing, too. C2 has an OBDI 42# software set-up for the dizzy VR, or OBDII 42# set-up. I'd probably have to swap to OBDII to go the C2 route. So it begs the question... $300 for software and $$ for OBDII swap & $$ later for reflashes... or find a standalone system. I'm leaning towards the latter. But that's even more $$... and a big learning curve!

Noah's currently manufacturing brackets to sell as nobody now sells them. I'd like to find a used set sooner than he intends to be ready, tho. I'll also need an idler set-up, belt, intake & charge tubes, DV, feed & return oil lines, bung for the pan (and new pan gasket), 42# injectors, 95mm MAF housing, FPR???, boost gauge, and wideband. I plan on running the MAF pre-charger, so I might try to fab my own pipes... and maybe an MAF housing. The DV recirc. will go pre charger, post MAF. Straight charge to TB. Non-intercooled, but I'll probably go meth down the road. The problem is that meth is not legal for SCCA right now, so I'd have to disco at events. I wouldn't do this 'till next year anyway. And of course I'd do this w/ a HG spacer and more boost.

So, I'm reading a lot. I'm hunting for mega deals. I found a MS1 v3.0 set-up on the tex w/ the edis 6 cyl driver, harness, and relays for $400 obo. That's a pretty darn good deal... but I need monies. I'll be selling some stuff soon, so keep an eye out. Please please please point me to anything you see that fits the list above. Remember... I'm broke! no joke! At this point, I doubt I'll be running b4 the season, but I'm hopeful! In addition, any productive input or information is appreciated!

:cool:

[vwremglx]

sweet man!

if you can do standalone do it. I personally feel locked down with C2. They are great but having the ability to tweak on your own is way worth it.

[B4passatglx]

Ya what Ryan said.

Thats why I have Megasquirt for my VRT. I need the edis setup though, or some sort of spark control.


Make a build thread! I followed your CQ thread the whole time!

[meatwad!!]

awesome!!!

[BUNNYLOVE]

I would go standalone too. Keep in mind you can run whatever injectors you want with it and you don't need a MAF sensor at all or different fpr.

Meth is not SCCA legal but water is right? You could just run straight water when you autox.

You have a 60-2 crank trigger already in there so I would use that. I would just run MSD coils and have the MS fire them. Or just use the factory ignition setup controlled by MS.

[lotar_6]

yeah, i'm psyched. I'm really looking into the MS set-ups... I didn't realize that I could go no MAF! how does that work?? wasn't sure about the fpr... good to hear. hopefully the stock pump will be enough for my needs. And from what I've found, something in the stock coil would need to be disco'd... some suppressor or something? but you're saying i wouldn't need the edis? I thought that was needed since MS has only 1 or 2 ign. drivers.

and yeah... good point... i think water is ok. I'll have to look into it. I wouldn't add it until it was up and running anyway, tho.

[car_whore]

sweet. can't wait to see this up and running.

"Max Power: 775 HP":wink:

[lotar_6]

lol...

http://www.maxpower.ca/wp-content/uploads/2006/09/maxpower_home.jpg

DOH!!


I'm sure that's for some nice Ford V8's...

[TROOPER95]

Sweet!

[veedubboostn]

aw snap!! woot woot :icon_woohoo:

[BUNNYLOVE]

It will run speed-density. It basically relies on your tps and a map sensor instead of the MAF. This is pretty common among standalone efi systems.
You can run alot more ign. drivers, you may have to add them though. You only need 3 to run wasted spark.

[orion2.0]

why no intercooler? It seems like if you are going to spend the time to fab up the piping you would want to integrate an intercooler. It would be beneficial when you cant run methanol spray.

[reverendhorton]

Water is definitely OK for SCCA. This big long arguing thread (http://sccaforums.com/forums/thread/179983.aspx) on sccaforums.com is a good read if you want to know more about why. Water injection is definitely something I would like to run as well.

I would think tuning it to run water all the time instead of switching to alcohol mixes when you aren't autocrossing would end up being more reliable, plus water is probably cheaper to fill up.

Great news on the charger. I think getting the setup together halfway through the autox season won't be a big deal anyways since then you can use the half season to work on your suspension setup since it will probably feel really different with all that power. Luckily you already have the limited slip differential..

[FusLit]

congrats man, very cool! Your car is gonna kick some ass!

-T

[VWTUNING]

!!!!! Awesome! Cant wait to see your progress on this.


Congrats!

[VRsuper6]

congrats man, very cool! Your car is gonna kick some ass!

-T

BAH! this is what im afraid of.... HE'S MY COMPETITION! hahaha, damn kyle. so i guess i wont be kicking your ass this year :wink:

[976]

thats great dude!

congrats! and Good Luck!

edit: we need pics of the progress!!!!:cool:

[evolveVW]

I'll echo what others have said. Go standalone. It will pay for itself in the form of you not having to buy a chip and reflashes among other things. The flexibility is priceless, and you learn a ton about making power and understanding how everything is interrelated in a simpler package.

[lotar_6]

Thanks all! I'm psyched! I also heard that Marie's boss my have found funding to support her taking a FT position on 1/26! w00t!!! I hope it works out... we gotta decide on daycare ASAP either way.

So tell me a little more about speed-density and wasted spark. I've yet to read more about the wasted spark... but I thought the edis basically provided the same thing w/o adding drivers. And, will my tps be ok for this set-up, or should I look for an auto TB? One more thing... are high-impedance injectors ok to run w/ MS, or should I get low-impedance?

I'll keep a progress thread and yes, pics will be added... don't worry.

BAH! this is what im afraid of.... HE'S MY COMPETITION! hahaha, damn kyle. so i guess i wont be kicking your ass this year :wink:

you need a running car to have a chance, Brenda! lol...

[VRsuper6]

you need a running car to have a chance, Brenda! lol...

OUCH! o you will see, kyle. im comin'

[kabinotar]

Looks good, Kyle. Git ir done! :laugh:

[j03skat0]

w00t, congrats mang. shaping up to be a fun summer!

[RichB]

What? no cat pictures? :laugh:

GL with the whole project Kyle.... I'm sure it will be super when its all done! :smile:

[vwremglx]

What? no cat pictures? :laugh:

GL with the whole project Kyle.... I'm sure it will be super when its all done! :smile:

yep, supercharged :laugh:

(sorry, just had to)

[lotar_6]

ok... so I'm trying to figure out what boost to expect w/ various pulley sizes for the trim level i have. Votech has an impeller RPM calculator (http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support.php?support_section=Impeller%20Speed%20Cal culator) that helps. I have a 6-rib 3.6" pulley that came w/ the charger. My crank pulley is 6.625" (thanks Todd!) and at 6,800 RPM (note 6,500 rpm redline) the calculator tells me the impeller will be spinning at 44k rpm. Note the impeller max speed rating is 52k rpm. I thought this might produce some low boost for me, but my new best friend Noah (DeckManDubs) is telling me...

40,000 rpms for impeller speed will be putting you in the area of 900cfm ~ 15-16psi without intercooler. However it could go as high as 19-20psi non-ic.

:eek:

I wasn't planning on spacing the HG or intercooling yet (maybe water injection) so I'm concerned about what I'll be doing to the engine. I intend to go w/ MS, so I should be able to retard timing & adjust fueling to avoid pre-detonation issues. But wow! I'm just trying to figure out how he came to these numbers. Will compressor maps help w/ these conclusions? If so, how? I just don't get the compressor maps... I'm a layman. I've been able to find this info...

Vortech S/C spec chart (http://www.mtpturbo.com/scmatrix.pdf)... not 100% convinced the info is accurate for the e-trim.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/maps/s-trim_map.gif
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/maps/s_vs_t-trim_map.gif

I can't find a map for the e-trim, but I'm assuming it's close to the t-trim. Any insight or ideas appreciated!

[VRsuper6]

there are SOO many calculations to take into account. your cams are going to screw with those as well as MANY other things. you said you have the lower pressure pulley, right? i would put that on with the intitiall install and make sure you have some good gauges to see where your at. i could drive myself to insanity trying to figure it all out on paper, but im a tech...NOT an engineer :P

theres a thread in the 12v forum on the tex asking about boosting 9psi on a high (11:1) CR motor with a V9. it seems like the consensus is that it will be ok with carefull tuning and water/meth. the person inquiring is actually the guy who built my head last summer.

[kabinotar]

From the bottom of the S vs T trim map, it says "Note: Pounds of boost at sea level = Pressure Ratio x 14.7 - 14.3" (assuming I'm reading that fine print properly. So, at 44k rpms your pressure ratio is around 2-ish. So, 2x14.7-14.3 ~ 15.1 pounds of boost.

It's all just math. :rofl:

[kabinotar]

i could drive myself to insanity trying to figure it all out on paper, but im a tech...NOT an engineer :P

It's times like these I enjoy being a bit of both. :laugh:

[VRsuper6]

now, how do you figure that... just wondering. are you taking into accout the volume of the motor and total volume including manifolds and piping, gas, and w/e else?

[VRsuper6]

It's times like these I enjoy being a bit of both. :laugh:

haha, yeah. ive found myself trying to get a better grasp on the other side, but my field is electronics, so its hard for me to dabble in an unfamiliar field and above my level of understanding :err:

[kabinotar]

now, how do you figure that... just wondering. are you taking into accout the volume of the motor and total volume including manifolds and piping, gas, and w/e else?

It's all based on the maps. Give or take a little depending on engine displacement and what the head can flow, etc. The maps sort of take that into account, and will be generally the same as long as you're within the recommended displacement for a trim level. At least, this is what I've found from my research.

[lotar_6]

The intake volume, temps, cams, etc. etc. will affect how the a/f mixes & timing should be set, but it really shouldn't affect the cfm or boost that's coming out of the end of the charger. That's all I'm trying to figure out at this point. All things equal, I guess I'm looking for an even larger s/c pulley, or more $$ for HG spacing, head studs, & intercooling.

more $$ to spend = :frown:

And V9's are a different animal... the CFM's produced are completely different. You'll find people using 2.75" pulleys to get 12-15 psi at a much lower cfm. It appears I'll be hitting 15 psi w/ a 3.6" pulley!! :eek:

btw... I sourced the last set of C2 brackets made that have never been installed! w00t!

[VRsuper6]

btw... I sourced the last set of C2 brackets made that have never been installed! w00t!

WTF?!?! howd you do that?

[lotar_6]

i asked! (not from C2, tho)

[kabinotar]

All things equal, I guess I'm looking for an even larger s/c pulley, or more $$ for HG spacing, head studs, & intercooling.!

Honestly, it's all about tuning. You can probably run everything the way it is with that pulley, do 15psi, and be good.

The same thing applies to turbo's, and there's a guy in the Hybrid Forum on vortex that tuned an 11:1cr car with a big turbo to 550-ish whp.

Granted you can be more lenient with dropped compression, but it isn't totally necessary. :wink:

[B4passatglx]

I was running 13psi of boost on stock VR6 compression with an intercooler and water/meth injection.

Ran great too, and there was no damage to be seen when I pulled the head off

[BUNNYLOVE]

I don't know that I would run stock compression with 15psi from a blower and feel safe about it. I think you need at least one of the +++money items. Pulley, spacer/studs, intercooler or drugs
If you do your own you can have a nice intercooler setup for a few hundred bucks.

[meatwad!!]

air to water IC!!!

you can get a nice core on Ebay for 100 bucks.
napa has the pump.
tractor supply has the lines and fittings.

i didnt look into it tho... :rolleyes:

[VRsuper6]

i didnt look into it tho... :rolleyes:

hahaha, yeah....

thats what im going to be doing with my setup. just gotta find a nice, FAT atwic core and its easy from there

[kabinotar]

I'd probably do the same with my 16v setup.

[lotar_6]

yeah... i'm skeered of that much boost w/o something to help. I'd LUV to do a AWIC, but plumbing is tough w/ the "stock" intake mani. how do I plumb from pass side to driver's side and back behind the engine to intake? plumb straight along the bumper and up? might as well do FMIC then. And the miles of tubing gets expensive, too! There's no easy way unless I dump more $$ on a SRI.

What about a funky custom straight thru AWIC in place of a charge pipe? ya know... in b/w the charger and intake. It'd have to be compact... I'm thinking like a fmic, but blocked off to run water instead of air?! thoughts?

[VRsuper6]

what about running a very smal side mount intercooler, mounted in the regoin of where the stock air box was?

[lotar_6]

what about running a very smal side mount intercooler, mounted in the regoin of where the stock air box was?

that is now occupied by the charger and intake piping... no room.

[VRsuper6]

observe :)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2543526

[lotar_6]

dude... my car's a rado... stock airbox is on the pass. side. pwnd.

http://img8.exs.cx/img8/1842/VR6Superchargerintercooler.jpg

now... observer the MILEAGE of piping needed... and how it runs right on top of the header. Of course you need cooling!! You're heating it up a ton on the way to the cooler. I'd prefer to clock the blower and shoot the charge under the bumper to the AWIC in that location. But there's still a lot of piping mileage and the sharp bend to get to the intake mani.

I want to get home and do some measuring now... I've made myself curious about a custom AWIC to fit post charger.

[BUNNYLOVE]

You could do a regular Air/Air front mount too. Don't forgot you need a res for the water, hoses, a pump, heat exchanger and way to turn the pump on and off.

[VRsuper6]

DERR, dont pwn me! lol, i know you have a rado, and thats a pic of a mk3, which also has the stock airbox on the pass side :cool:

i did notice that it goes past the header which i dont like... just came accross that after a quick search to show you it was possible...

[lotar_6]

lol... you pnwn'd yourself! :laugh: you said in the space of the stock air box and showed a car with the SMIC on the driver's side. :confused: and yeah, anything is possible.

You could do a regular Air/Air front mount too. Don't forgot you need a res for the water, hoses, a pump, heat exchanger and way to turn the pump on and off.

It'd be a small cooler if I even had a chance to pull it off. and I'd also be running a long pipe... i'm not a fan of how it looks, but what are the real downsides to a long charge tube? Won't it cause a loss of boost? problems at idle?

if you had to choose b/w lowering compression and a FMIC.... ???

There's no way to make a AWIC in the space b/w the charger and the intake. I've got about 10"x9"x4". Maybe do a water-cooled intake mani? lol... wish i could.

[BUNNYLOVE]

With a blower, I would drop the compression and just run water and/or meth for intercooling at some point.
I think that would give you the best bang for your buck. You can run two maps one with meth and one with just water. You'll be able to run more timing with better intercooling and a little more conservative with just plain water.
Longer intercooler tubes won't cause any idle issues especially with MS. It can cause a small lag but not really any ill effects. The larger the volume of everything the longer it takes to fill..

[lotar_6]

yeah, that makes sense... more volume to compress. there is a 11x7x3 space to fit a small side mount, but it's in front of the rad and there's still no place to run plumbing. I'd have to keep the plumbing in the bay.

compression drop makes sense... and water injection control can be integrated into MS. multiple maps wouldn't be too hard. I just wish I could figure out an easy way to intercool on the cheap.

[lotar_6]

I gotta do some more measuring... I want this thing to work:

http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/13/ee/6a3b_1.JPG

LINK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130262422876&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:us#ht_586wt_932)

if it were a little shorter and a tad skinnier....

[USOPHUNKE]

cool, kyle

I have a new oil line (drain) you can have for an OE and some orange juice. maybe other things you will need if you get a good list up. I might have an oil feed line too, but I am not sure it will be long enough for your aplication.

[USOPHUNKE]

stand alone and water injection has my vote.

[meatwad!!]

pete has one like that kyle cept its round.. maybe that would fit better... if you could find one.
if i had a TIG id be more than happy to make one for you

[B4passatglx]

I use meth which is mounted in my trunk. Works very very well and comes on with a boost activated switch. I hooked up a windshield washer sensor to the reservoir which flips a light on when the meth runs low.

If its your only source of intercooling, running out of it could be very bad when on hard boost

[lotar_6]

big thanks, Brent! I do need oil lines... I'll try to make anything work.

The AWIC Pete has is a bit large to fit in the small space b/w the charger and tb. There's enough room to run a charge pipe (~3" diameter), but larger than that risks getting crunched when the engine moves. As for welding... I've been reading info w/ my Lincoln and it has the ability to MIG weld aluminum w/ the right wire... how difficult is that?

I'm thinking the only viable option for the short-run is water injection... again, alchy mix is a no-no in SCCA racing.

List of needs at this point:

Idler
Oil feed & return lines
Bung for the pan
Standalone (MS)
Wideband & sensor (LC-1)
42# Injectors
95mm (3.74") MAF (maybe)
Belt
Charge piping
Intake piping
92mm (3.6") coupler
92-101mm (3.5"-4") reducer
70-80mm (2.75"-3.15") reducer
80mm coupler
T-clamps x 9 (various sizes)
Diverter valve
Filter
Boost guage
A/F guage
Water/Alchy injection


Somebody on Herby's forum suggested an intake temp probe... a DIY thing. Might be a good idea. Also, the piping & couplers listed are based on a non-intercooled set-up. Is there somebody or some place that could help make some custom pipes? Anybody gotz some black couplers? T-clamps?

[BUNNYLOVE]

If you do MS you'll need a intake air temp sensor anyways. You generally want to put in a charge tube anyways. You can data log your temps along with everything else.

Keep in mind that the shorter and smaller you go on the intercooler the less effective its going to be. Its hard to beat meth. Wes made 50whp more with meth with his M3 on the dyno.

I have a TIG so if you want to do anything custom.. You can MIG aluminum, but its tough without a spool gun.

Suggestion: stick with standard couplers not metric. They are expensive already and odd ball sizes are harder to find.

[VRsuper6]

VR's have an intake air temp senosr, but im unsure if you can apapt it for use with the MS. its on the intake manifold, near the main vacuum line. ive read up on some ppl using a IAT sensor from 1.8T's because it screws right in, and is a better quality sensor... something to do with closed-element, vs open.

another note, icase you were unaware. with the creation of a new maf housing, you must be sure to have a large intake tube and get the MAF as far away from the charger as possible. being close causes problems because of the turbulence of air so close to the compressor turbine....

[lotar_6]

good info guys... thanks! I knew the MS could data log it, but wasn't sure where to put it... I'll look into the 1.8t IAT sensor. The one mentioned to me was making an open element piece fed through a coupler connection.

And yeah... finding the metric coupler sizes is tough. But for some apps, like the charger intake, is it better to go up or down on the std. coupler size? ie... The charger intake is 3.6"... should I go w/ 3.5" or 3.75" or ???

And yeah... I'm aware of spacing the MAF about 18" min. away from the charger. I'd still like to learn a little more about using tps & maps instead of MAF. There's not a ton of information for the VR application of MS. and flow capacity of the intercooler options is definitely on my radar, too.

[BUNNYLOVE]

Its better to go down as long as its not too much. I wouldn't drop 1/4" but .1 won't be bad. Silicone will stretch a little. siliconeintakes.com is a good site for silicone stuff, btw.

[lotar_6]

will i need an auto VR TB??

[BUNNYLOVE]

Nope, you should have a 3 wire tps on there already.

[meatwad!!]

you dont need to run a MAF with ms.
more things you can do without .. the better..
do you still have your secondary air crap?
what about a trigger wheel? how are you going to run your coils?


it almost seems like we should have a SEM topic/thread all in its own.

need_a_vr6 knows about everything on the vortex on MS.

[VRsuper6]

need_a_vr6 knows about everything on the vortex on MS.

yeah, paul is a mastermind. but he charges for installs and such, a lot too. but he told me little things that he can answer through pm's he would be glad to help with throughout the install.

[turbosnow]

Cool news Kyle I always knew you were power hungry deep down.....

Pretty much everything has been said here but I will add my endorsement to going with standalone and at this point megasquirt has such a large install base that it should be easier to get support for it than for some of the commercial systems. Also I'd definitely get rid of the MAF and run of tps and a map sensor. as for the intake temp sensor, I would try to purchase a hard pipe with a sensor bung welded in rather that trying to locate it in a coupler.

[lotar_6]

cool... stock tb is ok. thanks, adam! yeah I've been wanting more for a long time. I'll figure something out for the IAT.

And... the SAI has been gone a long time now. the VR has a 60-2 crank trigger already... and i'll probably use the stock coil for now. i know i have to remove a surpressor... and i'll probably go w/ msd or ford coils down the road.

[meatwad!!]

are you going to switch to the GM sensors?
you put the IAT before the TB.. anywhere really...

[lotar_6]

didn't know i could go w/ GM sensors... assuming crank trigger sensor?

and does it matter if the IAT is on the mani after the tb? what's the difference?

also, i've read that i should be using a DV... but what about a hybrid? can i use something like this Turbosmart dual port bov (http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=310)?

http://www.streetunit.com/v/vspfiles/photos/FG-BOV-003DP-2.jpg

what are the benefits/disadvantages of bov vs. dv... or the combo?

[BUNNYLOVE]

People use them from air and water temp. You'll want t keep your stock crank sensor.
The AIT can heat soak in the intake manifold. You get a better reading of intake temp in a pressure tube.

DV or Bypass valve reroutes air (and noise) so its not un metered. Need for cars with MAFs. They make hybrid deals too. You don't have to get this type.. no MAF.

BOV, dumps to the atmosphere.

[lotar_6]

People use them from air and water temp. You'll want t keep your stock crank sensor.
The AIT can heat soak in the intake manifold. You get a better reading of intake temp in a pressure tube.

DV or Bypass valve reroutes air (and noise) so its not un metered. Need for cars with MAFs. They make hybrid deals too. You don't have to get this type.. no MAF.

BOV, dumps to the atmosphere.

you are like a gold mine! i owez u beerz.

so is there a downside to running w/o a MAF? and is there a benefit to re-routing to the intake? The valve above does both atmosphere and diverted at the same time. any benefit there? disregard the noise it makes.

I'm learning more about MS, but I'm confused about the capabilities of MS1 & MS2 around ignition control. I think maybe a MSEFI thread might be a good idea.

[BUNNYLOVE]

Nope, not really. You get get better fine tuning with a MAF but you'll never see a benefit with standalone. Basically nobody runs MAFs on standalone even though you can with alot of them.
Factory ecus that have map, maf and tps use everything togther to get the best results. You can get it just about perfect with just a map and tps input.

There is no benefit to rerouting other than noise reduction. If anything a bov will generally flow better because there is less plumbing. But any decent bypass/bov/dv will be just fine. I've heard a couple blower cars with bovs and they are loud

[meatwad!!]

BOV ftw
turbosmart anything ftl.

all IMO of course.

[MIdub]

if you go with megasquirt... get the MS1 V3.0... stay away from the MS2 and V3.57's... there more expensive, have less support, and alot harder to mod for the 3 ignition outputs. If you order it from www.diyautoyune.com get the preassembled unit , and make sure its comes the way you need it... your gonna want it modded for 3 spark outputs, vr crank, a tach circuit, and the right IAC...

[lotar_6]

if you go with megasquirt... get the MS1 V3.0... stay away from the MS2 and V3.57's... there more expensive, have less support, and alot harder to mod for the 3 ignition outputs. If you order it from www.diyautoyune.com get the preassembled unit , and make sure its comes the way you need it... your gonna want it modded for 3 spark outputs, vr crank, a tach circuit, and the right IAC...

I'm really glad you posted up! I remembered you saying this about MS1 & MS2 in your fs thread. I'm really curious why you say it's harder to mod for the 3 ign drivers?! It's the same board (where the drivers mount) it's just the processors are different (from my understanding). I'm hunting for something used, but pre-assembled (cause i'm a cheap azz), so I'll probably have to mod it to do the things you mentioned. By VR crank driver, you mean the 60-2 set-up? Also, what is the correct IAC? Does that depend on what the voltage range is of the IAC sensor I choose? And I thought they all had a tach circuit. What would be needed to add these things if I find a good used set-up w/o them? I do know that I'd need 2 more of the BIP373 drivers for the coils.

I'm bummed now that I missed out on all your recent VR fs items. :frown:

MegaSquirt-II has a faster processor, better injection pulse resolution, and has a number of added functions (like a ignition control, stepper IAC driver, and user configurable spare outputs for things like fan control or shift lights).

...MegaSquirt-II™ processor upgrade (aka. MS-II™ or MS2, also used in MicroSquirt™ and MS-II Sequencer™ controllers)...

The above quote from the MS faq page (http://www.megamanual.com/) is all I've really seen about the differences b/w the MS1 & MS2. I also understand the fuel map is more defined. I'll definitely go with the V3.0 board, but what other input do people have about MS1 & MS2?

[j03skat0]

page can not be displayed

edit: www.diyautotune.com does

[meatwad!!]

i have MS1 V3.0

and it doesnt work,lol, prolly cuz i built it.

so theres my .02

[lotar_6]

i have MS1 V3.0

and it doesnt work,lol, prolly cuz i built it.

so theres my .02

give ya $20 for it! :laugh:

[lotar_6]

I was home w/ Cole today, so I took a minute to get a closer look at the blower during one of his short naps. I only pulled the compressor housing for now. It looks mint in there! wiped the dust off and gazed at the shine...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3448/3232570522_002aed9901.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3500/3232570526_8cb061b3ec.jpg

I also started the sanding on the housing. Too bad it's all I can do for a while... Marie's job is still up in the air. We've no idea if she'll be FT or PT next week... reallllllllly sux for daycare arrangements! I hope she gets the funding... cause we need the funding.

still don't know what to do about intercooling. I may try to mount an awic to an intake mani next winter. doesn't help me now, though. i might just space the head and call it good.

[VRsuper6]

SHINEY!!:rofl:

[B4passatglx]

that compressor wheel and housing looks identical to that of a turbocharger.

[lotar_6]

centrifugal FTW!!

[lotar_6]

So, I snagged a set of C2 brackets which were one of the last sold... they've never been used! And I got a hella deal!! They arrived last week...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3567/3293145207_d214774eee.jpg

I also found a C2 Dual Idler set-up that I got in today...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3629/3293145411_636210f763.jpg

score! all the hard to find parts are sourced. I'm hunting for deals that I can afford, but really hoping to pick up a MS system next so I can start getting that sorted out. Oh yeah... I got a C2 9:1 head spacer on the way, too!!! Hella deal on that too... anybody know where to get the metal HG's on the cheap?

[VRsuper6]

GAP has them for $44.40, as opposed to MJM's $44.90 :laugh:

[reverendhorton]

price gougers!!!

[lotar_6]

dubnutz has them for $39 and autohauzAZ has them for $42 (and free shipping over $50 order).

I also want to find an underdrive crank pulley to help w/ my boost levels. I've found the OBX is 5" diameter... but I'm concerned w/ balancing issues. But with the 5" crank and 3.6" charger pulleys I should be where I want to be to start. The bummer is that I don't think I'll have this all together in time for the start of the season. But who knows...

[lotar_6]

So it's been a while since my last update, but I've been collecting parts. I just got my intake & charge tubes, couplers, clamps, dv & tube (not gonna use, tho) and s/c bracket brace from Noah. He's also sending me some hardware I need, oil feed & return lines, and 42# injectors. Can't say enough good things about him. I'll be cleaning up the pipes and painting them low gloss black soon.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3415/3512010618_aea9af56d6.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3400/3512010422_e2ae353c3b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3313/3511198925_02c5e908df.jpg

I also got a Greddy RS bov that came like this...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/3476008735_7678876250.jpg

and now looks like this...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3364/3476817808_ec8ffb9291.jpg

I also painted the dual idler the same low gloss black

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3648/3431441837_8ca3e8360d.jpg

I got the MS1 v3.0 w/ cable & harness from peterman. I just sent it out to Paul to get configured the way I need. Also picked up an Innovate LC-1 w/ a DB gauge. Vaporado wanted to trade his black face XD-16 straight up for a DB, so I lucked out! Now I just need to figure out where to mount them. Here's my boost gauge and the DB and a stock photo of the XD-16...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3580/3430023645_8c78581f5d.jpg
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/images/pb200_xd16.jpg

I also just bought ARP head studs and ordered gaskets to go with the 9:1 head spacer. Just need water injection, clean & map the injectors, air filter, IAT, smaller crank pulley, brk7's, and a belt then grow the nads to put it all in! I'm hella psyched, just nervous... mostly about the megasquirt.

:cool:

[VRsuper6]

ZOMG!! so jealous....

so i was doing some reading back in the day whilst planning for my build. came accross a bunch of ppl recommending using an IAT sensor from a 1.8T. basically, he stock VR one is a closed element and is very suseptable to heat soak, where as the 1.8T are open elements and look like a litte MAF sensor and are almost immune to heat soak. and iirc MJM has them for $35

[Jackalope]

This is an awesome build thread...

[lotar_6]

Inspiring Brenda: http://rabbitownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/1982-caddy-vr6-13576.html?t=13576

and this has what to do w/ my s/c project?

ZOMG!! so jealous....

so i was doing some reading back in the day whilst planning for my build. came accross a bunch of ppl recommending using an IAT sensor from a 1.8T. basically, he stock VR one is a closed element and is very suseptable to heat soak, where as the 1.8T are open elements and look like a litte MAF sensor and are almost immune to heat soak. and iirc MJM has them for $35

I'm well aware... I'll be using a GM open element IAT in the charge tube. I'm still confused about where to place the IAT and the water injection, though. I'm not sure if the injection should be before the IAT. The easiest would be to get a TB spacer and put the nozzle there, but the IAT would be pre-cooling. If placed after, I might run the risk of damaging the open element. I keep seeing various theories about this. ugh.

[BUNNYLOVE]

Kyle, unless you setup the IAT to actually do something in Megasquirt it won't matter. IE, you can have MS pull timing if you get really hot IATs to avoild detonation. Honestly, most people don't do much with it but its good for datalogging data.

I would put it before the water nozzle at least you can get your blower outlet temps consistently. The water injection is going to screw with your intake temp alot.

[car_whore]

I can't wait to see this done, it's going to be a fun setup.

Another project to add to the list that will get finished before either mine or Rob's.

[USOPHUNKE]

talk to usrt about where to put the water injectors, they were explaining to me about the vr if its not placed right basicly freezing the water if not far away from the intake. little ice pellets in your cylinder not good. I wanna say the guys name was scott but I cant remember.

[lotar_6]

thanks guys... good input. I think it is Scott and I'll shoot them an e-mail to see what they think. They do sell a tb spacer tapped for injection, so I wonder if they'll try to sell me that.

[VRsuper6]

yeah its wierd, the VR does seem to freeze things... a friend of mine's Vr raddo was spraying NOS and was freezing in the upper intake and actually cracked the bottom plate of the intake mani...

[THE.NEW.CAPTAIN]

dang... did he hit the NOS often? NOS is fuukin NUTTY!:laugh::laugh:

[VRsuper6]

yeah he played around a lot with it haha

120 shot was sweeeeet

now we're going to use it to spool the turbo thats going in (if he quits bein a bitch and get it already...)

[RichB]

thanks guys... good input. I think it is Scott and I'll shoot them an e-mail to see what they think. They do sell a tb spacer tapped for injection, so I wonder if they'll try to sell me that.

I've read some threads with Scott of USRT discussing this type of thing. In general it read that you wanted to have the meth enjection far away from the intake mani/TB (after the intercooler though) so that the spray has ample time to evap into the airflow.

BTW, I've wondered why meth controllers do not monitor air intake temp. I imagine on cool days when intake temps are in the 50's to 60's, that the meth injection should not be necessary (becuase the air fuel charge would be plenty cool/dense and you would be able to run the timing desired - also I would think at temps that cool, the water/meth mix would tend to condense on things more and cause problems), and then once the AIT (at the intake mani) goes above a certain point (along with certain boost level), then the meth injection starts ramping up.

[FusLit]

good progress man!

-T

[lotar_6]

So I spoke w/ Scott @ USRT last week... good guy and very helpful! He recommended putting the injection in the charge tube as close to the charger as possible. The charge tube is so short (about 18") that the distance from the TB needs to maximized to help w/ atomization. He also recommended the smallest possible nozzle size and a high pump pressure to help w/ misting and maximize cooling... especially since I'll be running 100% water. The placement of the IAT and BOV can be after the injection w/o any fear of damage to either.

He also said the difference in temps from placement of the IAT in the charge tube or in the intake mani (for an open element IAT sensor) would be nominal. He agreed that it would get some heat soak, but it would also help reflect how that would be heating up the charge air. I think I might try mounting the IAT in the stock location and then move it to the charge tube later to get some data and really test this out!

Now I just need to find the injection stuff or just give up and piece it together. I think I'm also going to give up on the underdrive crank pulley. I don't think I trust OBX and the others are too expensive. That and I'm skeered about how it will affect my accessories.

[BUNNYLOVE]

Why would you want an underdrive pulley? Do you need to lower the boost?

[meatwad!!]

I can't wait to see this done, it's going to be a fun setup.

Another project to add to the list that will get finished before either mine or Rob's.

damnit. im going to light you on fire.

[lotar_6]

Why would you want an underdrive pulley? Do you need to lower the boost?

that was the plan. I can't step-up the charger pulley any more b/c it would hit the bracket. I think I'm just being paranoid. I do have the ability to pull timing, I'm spacing the head, and injecting water. What's a couple extra pounds of boost really gonna do?! lol...

[VRsuper6]

yea kyle, i wouldnt worry about anything. ppl run that boost without injection and sometimes without a spacer

good to go, get it done!!

let me know if you want a hand, or someone else to nag you while putting it together :laugh:

[lotar_6]

lol... I'll be needing some help w/ the wiring for the MS fo sho. I gotta mount up everything to get a measurement of the belt, so that's gotta wait. I'm also still undecided about using the intake tube or just sticking a filter on the charger... probably use the tube to get some cooler air... but then hafta relocate charcoal canister. I also need to get the charge pipe in place to see what I'm gonna do with the BOV. The existing output is way smaller in diameter than the flange size on the BOV adapter. I'm not sure if I should adapt a hose and just mount it remotely, or if I should/could cut the exiting flange and weld on the one I have. Gotta see if it fits in that location. Otherwise plug it up and relocate. IDK... lots of unknown...

[BUNNYLOVE]

Keep in mind the boost is really linear with those blowers so you'll only see full boost when its wound out a bit so you won't be at that amount all the time.

[VRsuper6]

put a hose on it and bolt it to the hood

[USOPHUNKE]

cool glad scott was able to get you some good info...

? what is your normal rpm when autox, are you in the mid range or always in the upper revs. Thats going to tell you where your boost is going to be at the most.

of course with the boost you may not need to be giving it as much..... I might have missed it but what psi pulley are you running?

[lotar_6]

yeah... the boost won't be constant through an rpm range... the main reason I wanted the s/c to begin with. The "instant on" of turbo boost just messes me up while constantly braking & accelerating through corners. I drove an S4 tip a few weeks ago at the school... and that sucked!! the lag really blows. I want power when I want power. not when the car decides to have power.

neway, most courses I'll do in second gear and can max my rpms as a result. shifting to 3rd is usually not worth the time it takes as I'll have to down shift a second later. So most of the time is mid to upper rpm range. The calc's noah did for me puts me at max boost of about 14psi & 900cfm @ 6,500rpm. I should be safe, I'm just skeered!! eventually, after I figure out intercooling, I can get up to 17psi @ 1,150cfm w/ the right pulley.

[USOPHUNKE]

17 psi on the stock head gasket?

it should be alot of fun and I know the turbo's make much more power but I have to agree I like the smooth feel and build up of a charger. which should be great for autox...

what is your outlet side size for the coupler... just curious if ours are the same. mine outer diameter is like 2.75'' inner is about 2.25'' I have to get a coupler and charge pipe still.

[lotar_6]

17psi on a 9:1 HG spacer (w/ 2 MkIV HG's).

I forget the outlet diameter... about 2.5-ish inner... my charge pipe is 3" diameter to match the TB.

[FASTANDLOWAVENGER]

Are you bringing that rado to A&W on sunday??

[crew219]

yeah... the boost won't be constant through an rpm range... the main reason I wanted the s/c to begin with. The "instant on" of turbo boost just messes me up while constantly braking & accelerating through corners. I drove an S4 tip a few weeks ago at the school... and that sucked!! the lag really blows. I want power when I want power. not when the car decides to have power.

neway, most courses I'll do in second gear and can max my rpms as a result. shifting to 3rd is usually not worth the time it takes as I'll have to down shift a second later. So most of the time is mid to upper rpm range. The calc's noah did for me puts me at max boost of about 14psi & 900cfm @ 6,500rpm. I should be safe, I'm just skeered!! eventually, after I figure out intercooling, I can get up to 17psi @ 1,150cfm w/ the right pulley.

There should be no lag on an S4 Tip. Boost holds throughout the shifts and the K03s spool up very quickly.

Dave

[lotar_6]

Are you bringing that rado to A&W on sunday??

Yup.

There should be no lag on an S4 Tip. Boost holds throughout the shifts and the K03s spool up very quickly.

Dave

if i were simply nailing it, yes... but this happened on hard braking and trying to accelerate out of the apex.

[lotar_6]

So, I've been doing work... not as much as I'd like, but I'm making time now as I'm so anxious to get it out to race.

I finally figured out the MegaSquirt wiring and that's been my biggest source of anxiety. I've had some great help from a great tuner, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I've decided to skip the AWIC for now. I'll put it on sometime down the road... I just want it to run.

I'm in the process of spacing my head, installing an external oil cooler, putting water injection on, removing my forward resonator, and installing the piles of little things (like gages, bungs, catch can, etc..). I have all my parts except some seals, nuts, a couple fittings, and brake pads. I also need to locate a SUPER cheap older laptop to take with to races. I'm not comfortable taking the work laptop on outings.

My only visuals this time are how the charger turned out...

Before:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3115/3232570530_6aaabc6fa4.jpg

After:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/S96_pqB_jhI/AAAAAAAAAuk/tJnIRVXA7WE/s640/Polished%2001.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/S96_pxdTOwI/AAAAAAAAAuo/c_wUMCXuFKQ/s640/Polished%2002.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/S96_p5bJ9PI/AAAAAAAAAus/SaTv-G8KUxA/s640/Polished%2003.jpg

I had a blast driving an '85 318 w/ a bored M20 swap and race prepped in the autocross yesterday! Makes me want a RWD car... but I love the Rado too much. I'm going to need some pointers on tuning once I get this running. I have a base map to get me started, but I'm sure it's only good enough to get the car started.

Now I just need moar motorvation!!!

[lotar_6]

Also, I had a wavetrac installed in place of the Quaife the other week (by APTuning). I just hope this helps my CV issues.

[VRsuper6]

nice kyle!! that charger is shiny as ****!

what did the wavetrac cost you? just for the parts not the installation...

[kabinotar]

I'll be interested to hear what you think of the WaveTrac vs the Quaife. I've been starting to look into LSD's for my jetta.

Charger looks good, i hope to see the rado out this year. :sausage:

[lotar_6]

thnx!

The wavetrac can be found on special occassionally... autotech usually does a sale at WaterFest and over the holidays. I got mine from Bildon for $729. You'll also need a bolt kit. It's a bit more than the Quaife, but we'll see if it's worth it. The Quaife was a good LSD... acted as it should. I'd recommend the Peloquin b/w the two, but that's just from the service I've read about.

[iceVee]

Whose 318 were you driving at the autocross? Sounds like a a fun car.

[lotar_6]

It's a Glen meber's... Julius Carozza. Great guy and great driver.

Here's a shot of me he took...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3316/4575224248_6369227678_o.jpg

[RichB]

thnx!

The wavetrac can be found on special occassionally... autotech usually does a sale at WaterFest and over the holidays. I got mine from Bildon for $729. You'll also need a bolt kit. It's a bit more than the Quaife, but we'll see if it's worth it. The Quaife was a good LSD... acted as it should. I'd recommend the Peloquin b/w the two, but that's just from the service I've read about.

Will be real interested to hear what you think about the Wavetrac once you get some time with it. Thinin' seriously about getting one for my GTI.

[lotar_6]

updatez...

I'm do'n work, but it's a lot of stuff. I did finally realize that my boost tube is steel and so is the flange for the bov, so I can take care of that now. I've got the head spaced w/ arp studs and the top end back together...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/S_mPUwXp3GI/AAAAAAAAAvM/snVtECa1m1Y/s640/Head01.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/S_mPU_uAooI/AAAAAAAAAvQ/v2ldys4RFbs/s640/Head02.jpg

I also made a catch can...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/S_mPVXkbCyI/AAAAAAAAAvY/JBCVsrMOrK8/s640/CatchCan01.jpg

and I got the exhaust all back toegether w/ the EGT bung welded on and no resonator...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/S_mPVP2q2PI/AAAAAAAAAvU/FDWw_jCbvCw/s640/exhaust01.jpg

The transmission is mostly unbolted and I should have it out soon. Gotta get the driver's axle replace again. I tried to do it at the end of last season and the advance guy was giv'n me guff for blowing another one! I also found my driver's side wheel bearing is shot... ug. Gotta order that and get it in before throwing the other trans in. Also got new brakes to throw on.

I'm mounting the tank for the water injection and running the hose. Gonna be trunk mount so it's tricky to find a spot to route the hose. Once the trans is in I'll mount the charger and fit the tubes to figure out where to put the bov. Also need to make a bracket to relocate the charcoal filter. External oil cooler will also be installed soon once the trans is out. And, bung for the oil return should be finished up tonight.

Lot's of little stuff, but time consuming. I should have it back on the ground by next weekend and I can finish wiring the MS. Got a laptop lined up, so I have just about everything I need!

[RichB]

Nice work! :ssmile:

[USOPHUNKE]

wow thats great.... I dont know how you find the time to do.... nice work on it all. ??so your going just water injection, or intercooled and water injection??? I will read a couple pages back maybe I missed it.

[lotar_6]

thnx guys. I'm just doing water injection for now. I was gonna have a custom intake awic, but I'll get to that down the road. I should be fine w/ just spacing, but the injection is just peace of mind. People are pushing more boost than I will be on stock compression and no cooling. I'm doing the standalone thing, tho, so I'm affraid of pushing the envelope too far.

[USOPHUNKE]

cool.. I think if your setup works well I may copy you!!! well except for the stand alone.

[lotar_6]

Why not standalone? Of course, you've been there...

[VWTUNING]

woo hoo! glad that guy finally got your oil pan delivered. what a jackass! amazing he remembered it this time :laugh:

[car_whore]

Looks good. I can't wait to see what you think of racing this setup compared to before.

[VRsuper6]

noice! cant wait to see this thing driving!

[FusLit]

Lookin good man!
-T

[lotar_6]

still do'n work.

Got the old trans out, replaced the wheel bearing, put in the new axle, and re-re-re-reinstalled the new trans. It gets a little easier each time. AND, the output flanges don't wobble anymore!!! w000t!! I'm certain this will help w/ my axle woes. I just need to finish buttoning up the bolts on the trans and then I can start fitting the charger.

QUESTION: on the charge tube, there is a smaller pipe leading out for the DV. The diameter is for a hose to fit the cheapie Bosch DV. I'll be running the 38mm Greddy BOV which has a larger diameter adapter flange. My original thought was to cut the old pipe off the charge tube and weld the Greddy flange in its place. However, this puts the BOV under the tube and b/w the block and the strut tower. It will be difficult to adjust the BOV this way since the top is facing down and "hidden." If I run a hose, I'd need to figure out how to step up the diameter, or find something to weld in the current pipe's place. ALSO, how should I direct the BOV discharge? Didn't Stu have an issue with this?! Lastly, if I don't like the BOV I may go back to a DV (not the Bosch). Anybody aware of a DV w/ the same flange as the Greddy? I suppose I could find a DV output for the Greddy...

I also got my gauges fitted. the radio relocation is gonna be harder than I thought since it doesn't fit in the glove box. I'm not wanting to cut the box, but I may not have a choice.

[VRsuper6]

kyle, for the tubing: http://boostcontroller.com/

i'd be surprised if they DIDNT have what you needed. PLUS, they're local! (East Aurora)

ive never heard of troubles with where the BOV is pointed to...i would say anywhere thats unobstructed and away from things... but wtf do i know :ssmile:

[VRsuper6]

oh also, the radio.... do you run backseats? iirc you take them out for race days...

when i had a radio in the gti....i had it where the back seats sat. i intended to make a bracket and mount it cleanly, ended up just letting it sit there and eventually got rid if it entirely, but its an idea. i had a head unit with a remote which made things easier. is there no spot on the lower dash/center console like on mk2s?

[lotar_6]

I don't remove my seats for racing... and they are staying in. I wouldn't want to turn around to figit w/ tunes anyway. I looking for all ideas... one was to just use an ipod, but A) I don't have an ipod and B) how would that hook into my speakers/amp? And there is no spot in the dash as the heater controls must be where they are located, the AC controls & cig lighter kill the next slot, and I've got the stock oil pressure & voltmeter in the bottom slot. I may look into remote controlled head units.

I think I'm just going to mount it where the current pipe is. We'll see how it fits when I get that far...

[VRsuper6]

you could hook an iPod to it and mount it completely hidden, under a seat of behind the dash...

[USOPHUNKE]

I have a decent remote controlled cd player... yours for 50 bucks if ya want it... I can get the specs at some point....

[meatwad!!]

kyle, im pretty sure the procharger diverter has the same flange.. google/ebay it... its a nice DV

[lotar_6]

Brent, I may take you up on it, but that'll be one of the last things I deal with. I want it on the road first.

Rob, thanks for the recommendation. I also was told the synapse is a mighty-fine product. We'll see how the Greddy works. I should be able to find a replacement if needed that will work w/ the Greddy flange.

[BUNNYLOVE]

The synapse is really nice but its pretty big, probably 3x longer than your Greddy, but it does have a re-route flange built in.

Something to think about is that after the intial adjustment of the bov, you'll rarely touch it, so positioning it in a inconvient place won't be horrible.

I would make an adapter flange for the Greddy with a nipple that'll use the existing hose bung on the charge tube. That way you can easily swap in a DV if you don't like the noise.

You can point the bov anyway you want. I recommend not up, its open at idle, crap will jump in.

[lotar_6]

thnx!

I was thinking about doing just that to avoid welding on the charge tube and allow future changes... but would the smaller diameter existing on the charge tube affect the performance of the BOV?

And would a simple silicone reducer work as per Brenda's link above?

[BUNNYLOVE]

Yea, it would but it would only limit it to what a dv could flow.. A silicone or rubber transition hose would work if you can find one that small. You might want to look at radiator hoses for this app.

[lotar_6]

ok well, what's wrong in this Picture (ignore the filth)?

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TAB7ixQIC7I/AAAAAAAAAvg/hy_sWA8plCw/s640/OilCooler_01.jpg

Well, broke the crack pipe nipple off. I'm thinking I'm gonna jb water weld it under a steel band held on by hose clamps. it's not like I'm gonna use it. I suppose doing it right while it's open is smart. ug.

Here's how she sits now...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TAB7i1JgDLI/AAAAAAAAAvk/c0xesWqQCzc/s640/OpenFront.jpg

It gives me good access to oil cooler setup, which is my other issue. The first pic shows the gap b/w the sandwich plate and the cap. With about 2 or 3 turns in, the gap measures just >1 1/4". The old oil coole measures about 2 1/4". I remember seeing shorter shafts somewhere. Or I could nudge Todd into making me a spacer!! :wink:

edit... looks like Dennis did this. LINK (http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9501) Now I need to check how my sandwich plate fits on the oil pipe.

ug. working on 16 y/o cars (read v-dubs) can be a drag.

[lotar_6]

moar work...

I ordered the rest of my oil cooler parts, but they won't be in until 6/8. :frown: So on to the other items on the long list. I fitted the charger to measure up stuff. The intake pipe is a wicked tight fit. It's going to be hard to get the coupler on. It also interfered w/ my charcoal canister relocate idea, so that's now going behind the pass. wheel. I need to cut a hole in the raintray, though. Oh well. I also found that the best thing for me to do w/ the bov is to weld the flange to the charge pipe. No where else to put it really. It'll point to the open air behind the downpipe. Tonight I'll be measuring out the drain line and getting the pan on.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TAYqVK9LmGI/AAAAAAAAAv4/RdzdS5sQc9g/s640/V2install%2001.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TAYqVU7Si1I/AAAAAAAAAv8/XykpDCw0Hsk/s640/V2install%2002.jpg

All the trans stuff is done. I still need to set up the water injection and finish my wiring. The radio relocation issue has me thinking I'm just going to run an ipod to the amps to keep from hackering the glove box. Now to buy an ipod and cradle. I'll tackle that after it's running. Looks like I won't be ready for the 6/13 solo @ Arnot. :frown:

BTW, anybody want to help w/ tuning??? I've read a lot, but it would be helpful to have someone on hand who's tuned w/ MS.

And Rob, this ^^ is how you update a project thread! :smile:

[car_whore]

And Rob, this ^^ is how you update a project thread! :smile:

The car is looking good. I'm really curious to see how much your times change from the first time out until you get use to the setup. At least you are on the home stretch for the most part and you have located all the parts needed. Keep up the good work.:ssmile:

[lotar_6]

still working...

Took a few days off and hit it again recently. The last bits for the oil cooler will be here today and then I can start buttoning up the front. The wiring is coming along... had to extend the harness. Got the laptop and the software installed. But I've recently delved into my horrible welding skillz (or lack thereof). The oil drain line I have is just barely long enough to work. I had to get creative on the placement on the pan...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TA4ye0yP1-I/AAAAAAAAAwc/vBSdPjnCkZQ/s640/OilPan_01.jpg

The fittings I got from Noah put the connection way out from the pan w/ a couple crazy adapters. So I opted to cut the first adapter at an angle to keep the line close to the pan and angle it away from the axle.

The charge pipe came together nicely! Step 1

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TA4v7siAB6I/AAAAAAAAAwE/k615mftC0Gg/s640/ChargeTube_01.jpg

Step2, line it up, mark it, & cut the f***er up

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TA4v7y8VPsI/AAAAAAAAAwI/2BaAN18ZArM/s640/ChargeTube_02.jpg

Step 3, make sure it lines up w/ a tack

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TA4v8E8m3rI/AAAAAAAAAwM/1LWxY0CIxKE/s640/ChargeTube_03.jpg

Step 4, weld it & grind it (skipped documenting some steps to put the IAT bung on... pita, but a plumbing supply store had what I needed for the bung)

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TA4v8DBQ0pI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/LJWl_0KelHE/s640/ChargeTube_04.jpg

Step 5, paint it

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TA4v8YweAHI/AAAAAAAAAwU/SYE2mbjua9s/s640/ChargeTube_05.jpg

The intake tube is all set, too. The pulley is cleaned up and on the charger, the fittings for the feed and drain are set, and it's pretty much ready for final assembly. The pan, intake, charger, and piping can now go on. The belt will be here in a day or two. I'll then finish up the oil cooler and put the front back together. Need to run the wiring and solder the male connector on for the engine harness. The water injection is figured out, but I still need to assemble it. I should've had this done already... oh well.

Basically, I'm getting to the home stretch! I'm hoping to employ the help of people that have tuned on MS to help get her right once I get it started. I'm not ready to set dates for the project 'cause nothing has gone as planned thus far... but soon!

[VRsuper6]

fan****intastic! excited for ya man, cant wait to see it!

[FusLit]

looking good man, if you need anything I can help you with, make sure you txt/call me I suck at keeping current on fd threads :)

-T

[reverendhorton]

awesome!! your welding skills trump most of our nonexistent ones. way to go

[USOPHUNKE]

wooot!

[lotar_6]

Ok... so I'm getting anxious and the car isn't helping. I got the charger installed w/ the belt and charge tube and realized that the washers I put on the dualidler bolts (to get it to tighten all the way) pushed the heads out into the belt. So I removed the extra washers and pushed the top bolt a little too far and broke it off in the alt.! This leaves me with the alt stuck in the bracket.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBbxAzgwueI/AAAAAAAAAwk/nSZzeDaAPhw/s640/C2%20Dualidler%20bolt.jpg

I was making good progress...
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBdoL1ZUTcI/AAAAAAAAAw4/-qbrkUdFNjE/s640/V2install%2003.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBdoL3I7mVI/AAAAAAAAAw8/Z5pFAyKWUo8/s640/V2install%2004.jpg
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBdoLEZMRPI/AAAAAAAAAww/qoo6fo10yZI/s640/Oil%20Cooler%201.jpg
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBdoLuKmrdI/AAAAAAAAAw0/fv2syKFmD0A/s640/Oil%20Cooler%202.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBdoKTix-_I/AAAAAAAAAws/dDKaNYKVtUs/s512/Charcoal%20Filter.jpg

Oil pan fit well w/ the bung location. Oil feed & cooler all set-up. Belt worked great. Charge tube fit well. I'm just glad I didn't put the front end back together or install the intake yet. I'll try to get the alt/ps bracket off tonight... hopefully I can pivot the alt to get to the bracket bolts. Fastenal won't have my replacement bolts until Thursday. Brent, I'll take you up on the alt offer if I can find a bracket up that way. Otherwise, I'll try to fix what I have... but I'm not very optimistic about it.

I did get my wiring all sorted, so I can get that together. The gauges are together, but need to be wired. That leaves the water injection to be finished. I have a good start on that, so it won't take much. I was hoping to turn the key soon, but it's delayed yet again. *sigh*

[VRsuper6]

aggghk! i hate that crap. i think i have a bracket somewheres, but its for my super charger build and i think i started hacking it up already...

[iceVee]

The good thing is that if the bolt broke from bottoming in the hole, it should be relatively easy to get out with an easy-out.

[lotar_6]

found a bracket... it's on its way!

Karl, not sure... It was torqued pretty darn good and there's meat protruding into the bracket keeping the alt from being removed. I'd need a wicked long easy out to get it in there w/ it still on the bracket. I'll pick up Brent's alt and put it in w/ the new bracket and then delve into separating these parts later. I just want it on the road sooooo bad, and I still have a lot to do.

[lotar_6]

ok... so I'm watching basketball now. aaahhhhhh.....

I got lucky. I took a look at the alt I picked up from Brent and I'm glad I did. I started to try to pry the alt out w/ no success on the top. And to pivot it up, I'd have to remove the lower intake mani. One of the lower mani bolts was obstructed by the top of the alt.. dammit. So I finally figured I'd try to remove the 4 case bolts and split the alt case a lil'. It worked!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBgx0l78b_I/AAAAAAAAAxE/9nlC2Iw9bBI/s640/Alternator%2001.jpg

and this is why it snapped...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBgx02zIlNI/AAAAAAAAAxI/sTlMxRsufVc/s640/Alternator%2002.jpg

I should have chased the threads from the back side, but I was being lazy. Man did I pay for it. Oh well. So I put the case back together and thought I'd try to grab the remaining bolt and back it out. fail.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBgx1Th5HoI/AAAAAAAAAxM/-cAXCw307Oo/s640/Alternator%2003.jpg

All I can say is that I'm HUGE!!!

So I'm glad I got the alt, but the bracket is now not necessary. *oh well* :icon_slap: just wanted to make sure I'd have what I would need by the weekend.

Oh yeah, I had some visitors while working tonight...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBg3pYbqHxI/AAAAAAAAAxU/blQXz-lxlhk/Ducks-wth.jpg

Ducks? wtf?

The neighbors have ducks?!

[USOPHUNKE]

ducks.... we only have a fat squirrel in our shop... your so lucky!!!!

glad it worked out...(spare alt parts now too)

[reverendhorton]

what a wacky update...

you ARE a beast!

[VRsuper6]

Stu came to help you get that bolt out? :icon_beuj:

haha, and what the ****'s witrh the ducks...he just lets them cruise around and they ended up in the garage with you?

[Jackalope]

I think secretly you may find the ducks want the cat left in the bag...saboteurs I say.

[lotar_6]

:smile:

moar progress. we'll see how things go the next two days...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBwyD6HnJXI/AAAAAAAAAx8/7ZGcZIgeFBg/s640/V2install%2005.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBwyEKseF9I/AAAAAAAAAyA/S0xmx9XigFo/s640/V2install%2006.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBwyEURhFhI/AAAAAAAAAyE/Kwqfikgf9BY/s640/V2install%2007.jpg

and here's how the charge tube came out...
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBwyDjOrp3I/AAAAAAAAAx0/Pb-MDSMNjLw/s640/ChargeTube_06.jpg

and the oil drain...
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TBwyDqw1JuI/AAAAAAAAAx4/sQfVDgPsG90/s640/Oil%20Return%2004.jpg

"soon. i feel it thicken."

[Jackalope]

I'm no expert, but could the oil return hose be located on the front of the pan? Axles are prone to breakage with that driver...I'd hate to see you take a spare axle, but have puk all over the track. Anyways here's a :sausage: for Fathers Day.

[lotar_6]

thnx for the :sausage:

The drain line was wicked short. The drain on the charger is located on the back side. To route it to the front of the pan would take a new line and some very creatvie routing to get around the serp belt. Not gonna happen. My problems have been w/ the driver's side axle, and the new diff in the rebuilt trans should solve my axle woes. we'll see, though...

[VRsuper6]

plus you're not actually breaking the shafts, just the CVs and they dont move from their location when they do break...

[FusLit]

progress is good man, looking good!
-T

[lotar_6]

fluids in, O2 in, wiring harness is run. I just need to solder the connections to the T68 connector, wire the addtn'l relay, and stuff it in the box I have for mounting. The gages are needing wiring and the water injection is laid out on the mounting board... just needs the hose & a wire run. I'm holding off putting the front bumper and light together until it runs. The software download is giving me some trouble, but I hope to have it cleared up today.

[lotar_6]

The wiring is 98% done! I need to find the plug for the IAT so I can make the pig-tail. Als need to run a wire for the water inj and get the LC1 installed to get those wires routed. I used a radio shack project box for the connector and adtn'l relay (to trip the power to the fuel pump).

harness ready for install...
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCCLp4mcFGI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/lHm-66JaHo8/s640/MSwiring01.jpg

trimmed the plug down for easy soldering...
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCCLqhyauNI/AAAAAAAAAyU/WcSP7O0e4NI/s640/MSwiring02.jpg

how it sits in the box...
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCCLrHhZxeI/AAAAAAAAAyY/JXLCmPZRaQk/s640/MSwiring03.jpg
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCCLr2OYN1I/AAAAAAAAAyc/HWkKHfLnJy0/s640/MSwiring04.jpg

main plug finished and sensor wires ready to go...
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCCLr3YLveI/AAAAAAAAAyg/G2NRXQySbfk/s640/MSwiring05.jpg

The cpu is in the hands of my tech guy at work. I hope he had success getting the download done, upgrading the wireless card firmware, and getting the battery to seat. I'll delve into the gauges and sensors tonight and if I'm lucky (work fast) I might try to turn the key...

[VRsuper6]

wooooo, video is a must.

[lotar_6]

Man life gets in the way. I helped Chris separate his dp from the cat to put a new dp in. Sucked up my Tuesday. Kids n' stuff eat even more time... but at least that's fun!

Recently finished the water injection install completely. Here's pics from before I put it in and hooked it up...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCF7h6DGlsI/AAAAAAAAAyo/S3-2yS4TjYQ/s640/Water%20Tank%2001.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCF7ivkS1GI/AAAAAAAAAys/dWrjWuFeR40/s640/Water%20Tank%2002.jpg

I got the IAT in and wired. I installed the EGT and ran the wires for it & the LC-1. GAWD I hate wiring!! I also got the software installed finally and ready to go.

I need to pick up:
•heat reflective wrap for some wiring
• a grommet
• a couple inline fuses

Left to do before start:
• install battery
• push the LC-1 wiring into the box & wire it up
• run a separate switched 12v supply to the LC-1
• ground the sensors
• install switched constant 12v to the hidden cig plug for the dell

Left to do to drive:
• burp cooling system
• run vacuum line for boost readings
• wire in the gauges & install
• put interior back together
• install bumper
• run the wires for the front lights & install lights
• install grill
• install front rotors & pad
• flush brake fluid
• put front wheels on
.....then start driving & tuning

There's a ton of cleaning and little things left to do and I still have to figure out tunes. But the list to get on the road keeps getting shorter.

[USOPHUNKE]

getting there... nice work.

[lotar_6]

ok... got the wiring to the point of turning the key last night. calibrated the lc-1, fuel pump primed, software communicated, still need the vacuum hose for boost readings, but shouldn't get in the way of firing. turned the key and it sputtered and back-fired. of course my supposed constant power supply for the dell shut off and it rebooted. I was unable to get it to even try to fire after that (and I put the dell on a land power source). Of course I have a massive fuel leak at injector #1, so now I have to pull the intake mani to examine all the injectors and reseat as necessary. I'm not sure if this is why I can't get it to fire. Also, the adjustable fpr seems set too low, so I'll open it up a bit. I'm certain all the wiring is exactly as Paul said it should be, so now it's on to the settings in the software. ug. It's a bit confusing so I need to do more reading. Paul said the burned tune should be good to get it started, but I need to confirm the 100,000 settings...

ok... so help or ideas are appreciated!! If anybody has insight into the basic settings, ask me questions and I'll post up the details. I do need help... just need to figure out exactly what with.

[lotar_6]

ok... i was wrong. The vacuum line is for the most important sensor evidently. duh.

I'll fix the injectors and run the vacuum line and try again.

[lotar_6]

der.

I still can't believe how much of an idiot I am... will be running vacuum hose asap. Would've done it tonight, but instead dealt with the leaking injector. None of the others were leaking, and the one that was had a nice chunk out of the top seal. Luckily I bought some spares as part of an old order. Noticed I was missing a pintle cap and saw it in the inj. hole. Of course it fell in the valve chamber when I tried to fish it out. The lil' grabby thing I have wasn't working, so I ended up fishing it out w/ just a wire. Took forvever. But it's all good now and back together. Just too tired to do more now.

[johnouellette]

I've got a bunch of OEM VW vacuum line laying around if you need some.

[VRsuper6]

whats your power supply for the dell?

[lotar_6]

John... I might need some... always handy to have around!

Brendan, I bought a cig lighter converter, but the power was drawing from the radio constant 12v. I'm going to run a separate fused line from the battery. I'll eventually get the battery connection in the dell fixed.

[VRsuper6]

ok thats what i figured. well i know mk3's do and im pretty sure coraddo's too, when you turn the accessories on you can get all the stuf on the dash to get power (radio and such other accessories) but when you turn the key to "START" the ignition key dumps power to everything except the starter motor. so if you had the dell booted with the key to "ON" then tried to crank it your dumping power to the PC until you let go.

i would do what your thinking, run a direct line, fused and switched, to the dell.

[FusLit]

gah that sucks man :-/ I didn't realize the power to the battery was hosed :(

let me know if you want your $ back :-/
-T

[lotar_6]

nah... I'll fix it somehow... Chris also offered up a laptop for free. If that works better, I'll just sell this one.

ok... I took a couple of nights off as every night for several weeks was killing me... and racing on Sunday wiped me out. But I got back into it last night.

with the vacuum connected properly... BASICALLY, the engine will stutter and start to fire on the first crank (no backfire). Then absolutely nothing on subsequent cranks. It's acting as if it's flooding out... strong gas smeel from exhaust after cranking. Spark is happening, but not sure it's timed properly. Also, I am using 42# injectors, so I'm not sure if the burned program is compensating. Side note: the fuel pressure at the rail builds w/ the pump, but slowly dies out on sitting... I might have a leaky injector... or the pump may be releasing pressure... or is this normal? I've never monitored fuel pressure before.

I went through the Bentley for the T68 connector (ECM plug) pin-out to confirm what Paul told me to do for the wiring. One thing I noticed is that the Fidle valve (Pulse Width Modulation for the fuel injectors) has two T68 connections and no ground. I'm only running one MS connection to the Fidle (T68/53), but the Bentley shows a return from the Fidle to the ECM on T68/27. I'm thinking that the T68/27 should go somewhere to tell the injector signal how long to pulse... but it goes nowhere! Just an open pin in the T68. If this is the case, then the injectors are open for the entire duration and likely flooding the cylinder. Any thoughts on this???

So that's where I'm at. I'm pulling my hair out, but at least I'm getting rid of some of the grey. Not sure where to go from here. Just waiting on a return e-mail from Paul. In the meantime, I'll start piecing things back together like brakes n' stuff.

*sigh*

I wanna drive my car sooooo bad...

[VRsuper6]

fuel pressure should build and hold for a long while

[lotar_6]

yeah, that's what I was thinking... *ug* more money for injectors. I'm pissed b/c New Era cleaned and mapped them, but mentioned nothing about leaking... need to check for sure that it's my problem.

[BUNNYLOVE]

I highly doubt its the injectors. This is pretty normal without a return line check valve. Your factory one might be stuck..

Is your ISV wired in? If not you might need to manually adjust the TB open a little. If not enough air can get in it acts like a choke.. The stock TB manual setting will not allow the car to idle.

Your base map is for what size injectors?? If its for stock size units you might need to go in a reduce you fuel. If is setup for 20lb for example you'd be doubling the fuel injected. All you need to do is alter the base fuel map and cut the value by 40-50%

[lotar_6]

Thanks Ryan!!

Good to know about the fuel pressure...

Paul seemed un-concerned w/ the T68/27 pin... but I sent him a drawing of the schematic to see what he thinks. He mentioned that the tune is probably set for smaller injectors, but it's been so long since he set it up. I'll cut it back a bit at a time. Also, he recommended that I try cranking w/ the pedal WOT to cut back the pulse width.

Here's my mad paint skillz to show the injector / T68 schematic...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TCto2OQztbI/AAAAAAAAAzE/Do17XKwQ7ME/s640/T68%20inj%20layout.jpg

Also, all the injectors had a little "2" above the boxes for the injectors (T68 side) and a "1" below the boxes (ground side). The Fidle had the "2" below the box (T68/53 side) and the "1" above the box (T68/27 side). What do these 1's & 2's indicate?

And I've removed the ISV... so you might be spot on w/ that!! I'll try the WOT cranking and then mess with the TB... will I need to find a way to manually check it at the TB? If so, will it interfere w/ idling? I think I can spin the return dampener up to keep the butterfly slightly open.

[lotar_6]

Ok... Paul is awesome!! super quick replies!

Once he saw the schematic he saw the problem. The T68/27 should be a switched power connection to the PWM. He had it routed on an old schematic, but switched the MS pin used to SPARK B, and the PWM power supply never got re-routed in my schematic! I just need to jumper it to the MS switched power pin and hopefully it will make the PWM work and control my pulse width!!

[BUNNYLOVE]

There should be a set screw on the TB that you can simply adjust out a bit. You can basically set your idle speed here. Once its set you should be fine but you might want your idle on the high side so it doesn't die with the AC on.

WOT cranking is a "clear flood" function in most standalones.

[lotar_6]

yeah... Paul recommended spinning out the dashpot, which was exactly what I was planning on. He agreed with you that it would be an issue. Interesting about the clear flood function...

[FusLit]

<mr burns>Excellent news</mr burns>

[lotar_6]

w00t!!! IT RUNZ!!!

So it's running pig rich, lumpy, and won't hold idle w/o the pedal down. I'm gonna go adjust the dashpot and adjust fuel settings to get it to hold a decent idle.

On yet another side note... it sounds wicked mean!! Removing the resonator and replacing it w/ a straight pipe made it pretty loud! go figure...

[iceVee]

:ssmile:

[VRsuper6]

i got about half-mast just imagining the sounds it makes haha

[VWTUNING]

AWESOME! Nice work Kyle!

[BUNNYLOVE]

Awesome!

[FusLit]

Awesome!

x2!
-T

[lotar_6]

*sigh* it's frigg'n hot!!

So last weekend was spent replacing the brake hard lines in the truck and mowing/weed-eating. Just killed my time for the Rado.

I just finished cleaning up all the wiring and got the gauges hooked up. I'll mount them tonight and get back to the tuning. I did figure out that I had my injector calculations wrong. I'm flowing over 510cc/min!! 48# not 42# like I assumed. oops. Hopefully this will help smooth things out.

Also, I have an oil leak at the sandwich plate. UG. Now I have to take the upper rad support back out to get to it. Just happy I didn't put the bumper & junk back in...

[lotar_6]

ok.

Fired it up again and it ran better/smoother w/ the new settings, but still wicked rich @ idle. The mean sound it had was due to a massive leak at the rear connection of the new pipe. I put in some sealant and another u-clamp, so we'll see how it works later this morning. After struggling to get a wrench on the supposed leaking line from the sandwich plate, it seems tight enough already. There was a ton of wet grime in the area, so I cleaned it all up and I'll do more leak tracking before I commit to yanking te sandwich plate. I'm just not convinced it's my issue yet.

Here's how the harness plug came out...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TDk-ym1m97I/AAAAAAAAAzY/F4RPHZL9Dmo/s640/MSwiring06.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TDk-yyPtgwI/AAAAAAAAAzc/mYoxEijPTqg/s640/MSwiring07.jpg

of course it's all tucked away, now... but you get the idea.

Tidied up the trunk...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TDk-yWlynOI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/TlmY4YlXajk/s640/Water%20Tank%2003.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TDk-ya0kg0I/AAAAAAAAAzU/mDCydZjCyT8/s640/Water%20Tank%2004.jpg

Gauges installed...

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TDk-yBwdywI/AAAAAAAAAzM/teV0Lw9Px7c/s640/Gauges%2001.jpg

I still need to put in the ashtray and try to do something w/ the trim cracks. Low priorities, but does anybody have ideas on how to mold and color the cracks? I'd put in new trim if I could find one (and less than $100... frigg'n crazy). The power line I ran straight from the battery for the CPU didn't work. I'm guessing that since my battery is so small the power still dips too low when cranking *sigh*. Now I need to get my battery issue fixed on the Dell. Still need to get a hold of Chris, too.

Brakes are done and hopefully it's just tracking & fixing the oil leak before I can put the front end on. It's holding an idle but I want to smooth it out a little before hitting the road.

[USOPHUNKE]

looks great... nice job man.


for the trim you could plastic weld it, sand and paint semi or flat black maybe.... but I am not sure if that will look ok. they are not cheap so getting one will be a pita.

[lotar_6]

thnx...

So here's the video...

RWmm8a41PgM

so... massive oil leak above the bell housing! o noes. I also see oil in the coolant!! However, there was oil sludge I cleared from the reservoir before adding coolant. I'm hoping this is just left over from before, but the steady oil drip is discouraging. However, the oil in the coolant is black, and my new oil is clean. Plus, I don't see any signs of coolant in the oil via the dipstick. I snapped some pics to show that the oil mess is below the HG and running down around the Thermo housing and the top of the trans...

above the bellhousing, b/w the thermo housing & upper TC cover...
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TDntNJEQLzI/AAAAAAAAAzk/qef7s59aYtA/s640/Oil%20leak%2001.jpg

Oil streaming below the crack pipe on the block from below the thermo housing...
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TDntNWMamjI/AAAAAAAAAzo/dT57qzfNED4/s640/Oil%20leak%2002.jpg

I'm not sure what to think. I'm dreading taking the head off yet again. I installed the spacer w/ the mkIV gasket split in two... one half on either side. Maybe I should just put one full gasket on either side of the spacer like I originally wanted. But first, any thoughts on where else it could be leaking? I only removed the upper chain cover and the Thermo housing was unboleted, but left in place. What else could it be in that area above the bellhousing?


And I have a nice wandering idle. The autotune feature helped a little, but it's still roaming quite a bit. Here is a view of the warmup wizzard, VEtable 1, and VEtable 3...

GVmMhNqqoDg
YlKwtu-CMsQ
Vn1x9SE-RyA

note that all these pics and vids were done on my cell phone... sorry about the low quality.

Last note... My boost gauge shows that I'm not building any bost. When I rev it, the MAP actually goes down! I'm not sure if this is due to a poorly set BOV, or if it's leaking, or what... any ideas?

[USOPHUNKE]

check for boost leaks, make sure your spinning the charger in the right direction, they make two diff internal pieces depending which way you spin the charger. check the bov... and check to make sure the boost gauge is actually working correctly.


bummer on the oil leak, upper timing cover hopefully is the culprit.


dont get discuraged you got more done than Rob. =)

[lotar_6]

lol... I'm always discouraged. Doesn't mean I'll give up, though.

The charger is mos. def. spinning correctly...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3500/3232570526_8cb061b3ec.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3385/3196862130_2281b7695f.jpg

I'm not sure how to check for boost leaks. Almost all of the vacuum lines have been replaced, and the remaining old linse seems fine from when I spliced it. Both the gauge and the software show the dip in MAP. How would I check the BOV?

I'm thining now that the HG is fine and it's just the upper TC cover. When I did my timing chains (about 40k miles ago) I had the head decked. This caused a fitment issue for the TC cover and I forget what I did to make it fit. BUT, the main reason I think this is the problem is due to the gunk build-up of old oil in the same area. It's been leaking from up there for some time it seems. I think I'm going to yank it off to get a better look at things around there. Removing the coil pack helped, but I need more room for the eyeballs.

The wandering idle when warm is my next tuning challenge. I think it's related to removing the ISV, but I'm not sure what to do to remedy it.

Fuel pressure holds at just under 70 psi (~4.8 bar) when running. AFR is better (about 12-13 when idling cold), but it's hard to get a good reading since it jumps around w/ the wandering idle when warm. Hopefully Paul will have some ideas. I also need to buy the datalogging software from TunerStudio to get some logs to show.

[lotar_6]

ok... I tore out the upper intake, VC, and upper TC cover and cleaned everything up as best I could, which isn't bad. It was definitely leaking all around the base of the upper TC cover. I only used the copper tack spray b/w the gasket and the spacer. It shouldn't have mattered had the TC cover been properly shaved... Mike and I made it work at the time. Should I just push in permatex ultra copper or make a material gasket? I just don't know if the gasket maker will be strong enough to hold manifold pressure. It's not that far off, just not as tight as the head itself obviously.

ALSO, in removing the VC I noticed the hose to the catch can was kinked. I'm sure that's not helping the situation.... Any tips on how to mold a hose or help it keep shape on an almost 90˚ bend?

I'll throw it together tomorrow night and let the stuff cure for a day or two. I'm planning on taking a mental health day on Friday if anybody wants to stop by. :cool:

[iceVee]

ALSO, in removing the VC I noticed the hose to the catch can was kinked. I'm sure that's not helping the situation.... Any tips on how to mold a hose or help it keep shape on an almost 90˚ bend?


One option is to cut the hose and clamp in an elbow of hard tubing. Or, find a molded hose from something else that can be trimmed to fit.

[lotar_6]

good ideas... I'll see what the parts stores have.

[VRsuper6]

ppl sell hoses with springs in them so they can b bent without collapsing....make one? :p

so far so good, kyle. cant wait till it drives!

and on other thing.....WASH THAT DIRTY BIOTCH!

oh sorry, one more.... lower it.

[BUNNYLOVE]

They sell grey pvc barb elbows at lowes and HD that'll work.

[lotar_6]

:trout:

so last night I was able to very snuggly fit a gasket in there and put the TC cover and VC all back together. I'll get to the rest later since I'm gonna give it some time to cure. I yanked the hose for the catch can and will be getting an elbow promtly.

I'll wash the car when I can pull it out on it's own power... and the ride height is just right :cool:

[lotar_6]

*$%()^)#*$%&!!!!!

So a little tip to anyone doing engine work... do it all at once so you don't forget anything!

I forgot to put the TC tensioner back on! Fired it up and FFFfffff......udge. only ran for about 2 seconds and I shut it down b/c I knew what was wrong. Took me another 2 seconds to remember the tensioner. DAMMIT!!! So I yanked the intake and VC yet again and found the rear cam 2 teeth off. I was able to turn the crank by hand w/ no indication of interference, so I set TDC , spun the cam back, and just finished putting the VC back on... again. Gotta take a break for lunch and to run to the post office and I'll get back into it. just sux b/c I should be tuning right now. talk about a time kill. I'm pretty sure my valves are fine, but we'll see. Might be doing head work this winter. at least I have head studs now...

One other mistake I made was draining the coolant. I should have waited to do some warm up to spot any oil leaks. oh well. gotta flush the coolant and clean it up again to spy for oil leaks.

*sigh*

[VWTUNING]

Dude.... :( Sorry to hear. Hopefully no bent valves...

[FusLit]

gah, that sucks Man :(

fingers crossed that everything is ok

-T

[lotar_6]

It fired up and ran better than before... kinda. Still a little wandering and no boost registering, so I need to replace everything on the vacuum trail. Hopefully I didn't kiss the pistons and all is ok. Also, I had another exhaust leak... at the front of the new pipe. I knew I shoulda sealed it when I did the rear. All better now, though.

So I'm back to square one. I need to let sealants cure and I'll run it again for a while to check for oil leaks. If all is well, I'll put the front end back on and put her on the ground.

[iceVee]

So far, so good!

[VRsuper6]

oh man! close one for sure, kyle. glad to hear its ok though.

[lotar_6]

yeah... DOH!!

so the oil leak seems to be gone... yay! I'll be putting the front end back together once the boy goes down for a nap. I'm still not getting boost, so I'm going to get the mighty vac out to check for leaks. I'm also going to remove the BOV to check it for leaks and adjust it a little. I found an interesting thread on bench testing, so we'll see how that works.

[USOPHUNKE]

great on the oil..... Bov is going to be my guess or some major tear somewhere your just missing...

[lotar_6]

welp, it was the bov.

I'm glad I finally found another use for the mighty vac. I first hooked it up to the bov vacuum line and it started leaking right away. I then tested just the line going to the MS & gauge and it held great. gauge reads accurate and MS also reads correct. I then hooked it up the main system and everything holds great. So I yanked the bov and teflon taped the set screw and the vacuum line fitting. Now it holds vacuum & boost perfect!

So, I spun the set screw all the way out. It starts to open the valve at 10 in/hg. My reading about bov's helped me understand the process, now I just need to figure out what in/hg the VR6 operates at in idle. As long as I set it just above that level, I should be good, right?! I know I'll have to fiddle w/ it some, but it's a huge PITA to get to when installed. I'd like to get it close on the bench. Time for more reading...

[USOPHUNKE]

sounds good, you know the culprit, so now to get r fixed. Wish I knew more but I am clueless n this....

[lotar_6]

me2... I just keep reading and tinkering...

[USOPHUNKE]

tinker tinker..... till its done.

[lotar_6]

DAMMITTtttt!!!!!

I cannot catch a frigg'n break! :mad:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TEN2hwgfk4I/AAAAAAAAA0M/Jru3bSAToJM/s640/Greddy3.jpg

I spent all this time f'n w/ springs (bought some more to try) and finally got it to hold to 18 in/hg and open fully at 25, then I go and snap the base installing it. mother fu.... more money out the window.

Anybody got a bov for sale w/ a greddy flange? I'll end up ordering one tomorrow if nobody chimes in. I'd like to upgrade, but now I have spare parts... diaphragm etc.. I just want it on the damn road...

[USOPHUNKE]

=( bummer.

[VRsuper6]

oh FFS!

[FusLit]

Call ryan, maybe he can tig weld it
-T

[Jackalope]

I feel your pain...oh well onward and forward....

[reverendhorton]

argh, so close! it sucks to be hung up on something that is such a small piece of the puzzle. good luck finding another one

[lotar_6]

thnx for the condolences y'all. I'll get it done someday...

Call ryan, maybe he can tig weld it
-T

I thought about this. The big problem is that the piston seal screws into the base and a chunk of the threading for it is now removed. I suppose it could be done, but it would take a lot of effort... and probably still need to be milled to make the mating surface true.

I've found a few new RS's fs, but they are scattered across the country. I probably won't have one until the end of the week IF I'm lucky... and we all know I'm not. I was really hoping to take it to the BBQ...

[USOPHUNKE]

Kyle.... I would get asking around, I see them laying around now and then, send j a text, and I will check at the shop... (bbq+rado=Yeay)

[meatwad!!]

now how did you do that? is the flange not flat?


i have one you can borrow, or keep if you replace it for me....
to get you out driving it

[lotar_6]

kewl... thnx Rob n' Brent... but I just found one on CL down in VA. NIB and the guy's shipping it up first thing in the morning. I should have it in a few days.

fasdubs rox!! I will pwn this damn car...

and I'm not sure why it happened... just über strong I guess. No chances next time. Thin film of silicone w/ the gasket and not too tight!

[meatwad!!]

was stu helping you tighten that?

[lotar_6]

So new vs. old...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TEkCM0K0jyI/AAAAAAAAA0g/qxl2Q1fuD60/s640/GreddyNew1.jpg

so far not bad.

but the new wouldn't hold vacuum for isht. couldn't even get enough vacuum to get it to open. ug. so I pull it apart and I see the diaphragm is red? I notice the nut holding the piston to the shaft has no washer and isn't the proper locknut. the set screw was flat on the bottom instead of pointed. and, the "washer" under the set screw nut was just a rubber o-ring. upon further inspection I noticed something...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TEkCNMuygfI/AAAAAAAAA0k/jB4tx0LCA1I/s640/GreddyNew2.jpg

bottom of the lip on the diaphragm? The damn thing is installed upside down. wtf. So I flip the diaphragm, swap piston & washer/nut, and then spin off the horn...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TEkCNAJDR7I/AAAAAAAAA0o/UAZPstzEah8/s640/GreddyNew3.jpg

the new body on the right has a nice chunk missing from the valve seal being tightened too far. It's not leaking, but I dabbed a bit of silicone in there and put the old horn on. Now it's back togther, holding vacuum perfect, and opening at 18 in/hg full open set screw w/ two spings. Just a little pissed that it was advertised NIB. Luckily I paid a decent price for it, and it got me back on track.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TEkCNY3oYKI/AAAAAAAAA0s/YmXY-6Q75SY/s640/GreddyNew4.jpg

It's waiting to go in as I got tired after buttoning up the rest of the font end. I just need to clean up around it and I'll drop it on the ground...

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TEkGyocEjHI/AAAAAAAAA00/FQ-lB2S1Be0/s640/2010_Back%20Together.jpg

Hopefully, Chris is stopping by tomorrow night and hopefully it'll run well enough to take it for a spin around the block...

[FusLit]

awesome progress man, glad you were able to find a new bov, sucks that it was not new as advertised :/
-T

[crew219]

Hey man, I'd check to make sure the greddy valves you bought are real. Tons of counterfeit ones out there.

http://greddy.net.au/news/?id=73

[lotar_6]

yeah, Greddy's not real. well, parts of it aren't. oh well... it works. i'll replace it later.

So... I took her down the road to the Nice n' Sleazy to get a splash of gas last night. I thought maybe my O2 was bad, so I got a new one and put it in. The wife's car is beeing all needy, so I haven't been able to do much on it last week. But I'm delving into the tune finally.

I drove it about 3 miles or so to the gas station while data logging. Got some gas and came back and did a second log while using the VEanalyze live autotune. The car was bogging down on launch and my clutch felt soft. The part throttle cruising wasn't bad and I did see a little boost, but not much since I was keepint the revs down. The wandering idle seemed to persist until I got home and was idling in the garage as I shut things down. Then it seemed better! I took the .msl & .msq files and used MegaLog Viewer to analyze them and it gave me a tune I'll try tomorrow. I also sent them to Paul to see what he thinks, but I'm hoping that I just need to log some time on it.

Here's to loosing an entire summer to this project! :sausage:

And I tried to make it at least look fast...

http://i29.tinypic.com/2ewihi8.jpg

[FusLit]

good news man, hopefully the idle issue will smooth out once you are able to drive it around a bit, get things up to temp and back a few times

-T

[lotar_6]

more data logging...

the idle seems smoother, but I'm stumbling on some gear shifts and start. It feels good to drive it again! :smile: I did push it a lil' harder and saw a bit more boost. I have no idea what the bov is doing, but it's not what I expected. it's more like it bleeds off rather than opening completely. ug. I'm hoping it's not the cause of my problems. I just need to feel what it's supposed to run like to help me diagnose... I'm not used to this other way around isht.

[lotar_6]

So I drove it up to 'cuse on Saturday and it did well. It pulls very well, but still bucks a lil' but very sporadically. The tune is coming along! It helped when I turned the EGO correction down to 5% from 20%!! Also, the BIG source of my bucking issues was running a TPSdot driven Acceleration Enricment. As soon as I'd put the foot down, it would dump a bunch of fuel and bog me down. I switched it to a MAPdot AE and it's MUCH smoother.

Now I need to tackle some little things.


Flush coolant
Re-seat injectors (some gas smell crept up on the way back from 'cuse)
Bleed the brakes
Tweak driver's front dust shield
Tighten belt a touch & apply belt dressing (some slipping in 1st & 2nd pulls)
Check the bov while it's all apart
Secure my Dell charger a bit better
Clean the bay... it's durty!
Eventually get back to all the other Corrado problems I've been ignoring...


I'm only seeing about 8-9psi, but I'm sure that's b/c of the pulley size. I'll figure out over the winter if I can afford the cogged set-up, or just try a smaller pulley. I also want to put a resonator back in... it sounds mean, but too damn ricey for my taste.

BTW, I received a major stare-down as I cruised through the McDonald's, on Erie & Midler, to get food on the way home! Lot's of rice for a McDonalds! :laugh:

[Jackalope]

You know all they had on their minds were "can I get fwies with that.":smile:

[j03skat0]

Saw you by the hangar sat night. sounded pretty good and you cruised by me!

[lotar_6]

Saw you by the hangar sat night. sounded pretty good and you cruised by me!

thanks! yeah, I came through as people were pouring out.... well at least the traffic was backed up at the light. only a few scragglers at the theatre. I was trying to keep it low-key as I saw a bunch of cops... mostly around Cortland, tho.

[FusLit]

thanks! yeah, I came through as people were pouring out.... well at least the traffic was backed up at the light. only a few scragglers at the theatre. I was trying to keep it low-key as I saw a bunch of cops... mostly around Cortland, tho.

swing on up this way sometime I'll buy you a beer (and *cough* put you to work)

as I recall, (usually) not alot of cops between my house and yours

Oh, I need to get you the hub tamer back, when's a good time to catch up?

-T

[lotar_6]

no hurry Todd... I'm heading to Indy on Thursday and will be gone for about a week. Lot's to do b4 and after. I need to address the leaking FPR (sonuva b*tch) and tackle my other issues before the car show on 8/22 in Corning.

I'll definitely make my way up there sometime soon!

[lotar_6]

ok... so here's my radom update.

The fpr just needed new o-rings. The stock new set from the stealer made the install much much easier than w/ the cheap crap that came with it. All the other lil' things were easy.

The car is doing pretty well. I showed it at the 607 show and was rewarded in my class...

http://www.allankintz.com/photos/carshows/10customstoclassics/IMG_2846.JPG

I also raced it last Saturday at the Solo @ CCC. It was popping and backfiring b/w shifts. It pulls well and my AFR's are safe, I just need to figure out how to keep it from dumping fuel b/w shifts. I did sit w/ a buddy after the event to compare notes. He just finished building a turbo miata w/ MS... we learned a bit from each other. Very helpful. I've got a few ideas to try now.

Overall I'm happy, but I did expect more out of it. I'll probably rebuild the head unit w/ upgraded bearings and drop the pulley size over the winter. I did also order a resonator b/c I hate the exhaust tone w/o it. It was back ordered and hope it shows up by the weekend. I'll probably keep the changes to a minimum over the winter... I need to put some time an money into the other cars since all are in need.

[Jackalope]

Ooh I love random updates. Glad to hear you got to the track this season. So want to ride in it.:trout:

[lotar_6]

rides are fine if you hold the laptop!

So a fellow Vortech/MS guy on the tex put me in touch w/ the guy helping him tune! I've got some good direction to follow now. We'll see how it goes... I need to smooth things out a little by the next event at the end of the month.

[Jackalope]

Are writing up your new owners manual and troubleshooting guide? Or this thread serves that purpose?

[FusLit]

Nice man, car looks good!

-T

[lotar_6]

The new owner's manual only contains the following:

"Sit down. Shut up. Hold on."

[Jackalope]

Freakin hilarious

[lotar_6]

So... things are going ok. I've noticed some leaking around the fittings for the oil cooler heat exchanger. I'm going to tighten them up a bit and then replace the unit over the winter. The exchanger isn't doing much to keep temps down. I'm hoping a good unit will change that.

the tune is coming along. It's getting better, but it's not perfect. My popping b/w shifts is getting better, but it's still rich there. I'm still trying to figure out the decel enrichment settings.

The big problem I had at the last race was losing my air filter... twice! the intake pipe to the charger was cut short by the PO. The filter attaches to the pipe right where the frame is, so it's been chaffing for a while and the rubber is worn down. I think I have it on ok for now... but I need to find about 6" of 3" mild steel tube to extend it a little.

All ready to race:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/5058015011_afe29ccdc0_z.jpg

Here's a shot of a wicked fast finish at SeAD...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5058620124_4f05392c35_z.jpg

I think this means I'm a bit rich...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/5058622814_846b1709f8_z.jpg

BTW... it is kinda cool (and a lil' scary) to see blue flames popping out of the exhaust at night!

[j03skat0]

Lookin good Kyle!

[lotar_6]

ok... dü'n moar werke.

I'm replacing the heat exchanger for the oil cooler since the other was leaking. I got it to fit, but it's mounted vertically b/c it's too thick to fit like the other one. Therefore I had to buy some 90˚ -10an fittings and had to replace one of the hoses b/c it was too short. Not quite done b/c I had to order another 90˚ fitting to make the lower connection a U shape.

I also bought a Synapse to replace the Greddy...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TbQjk3DDjzI/AAAAAAAABDc/v2PIHelioUg/s640/Synapse01.jpg

And I had to weld another bung on the boost tube for the boost-only feed...
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TbVog39kr2I/AAAAAAAABD4/fKK6Vp7Pb00/s640/Synapse02.jpg

A HUGE thanks to Vinnie for hooking me up w/ some left-over 3" pipe!! I know my welding sux, but I'm getting better. There are a couple of nice beeds mixed in with all the crappy build-up spots. I need to get some gas, the flux core splatters like crazy!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TbQjkyZlIDI/AAAAAAAABDg/h4jEjgOCsqU/s640/Pipe%20re-do%2002.jpg

I got the set-up together, painted it, and reinstalled... only to find out that the angle of the pipe was too close to the frame and the air filter wouldn't fit!! DOH!!! So back out it came and was hacked up again for an angle cut...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TbVog6nC24I/AAAAAAAABD8/z2fcXps4EuI/s640/Pipe%20re-do%2003.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_LAG5uuz3k-0/TbVog9J1FpI/AAAAAAAABEA/HUX6p9OThBw/s640/Pipe%20re-do%2004.jpg

This time I test fitted it and I'm a.o.k.! Now to get more paint. I'm hoping to have it on the ground Weds night. First race is Sunday... not much time to tinker thanks to my procrastination.

[meatwad!!]

nice, whatcha doing with that greddy now ? :smile: