Lotar's newest toy car

[lotar_6]

So I made a deal with the wife that I can get this new toy if I sell the Mcycle... anybody interested in an '89 FZR600??

This originally started bc I found a kid w/ an E36 wanting to trade for a sport bike. It had a new clutch, exhaust, and a LSD in the rear and was to be a winter car for me. He flaked on me, but not until after the wife approved of the idea. So... I started looking around just dreaming and came accross my new car (deposit made... to be picked up as soon as I get a free weekend day... hopefully this coming weekend).

It's a 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro 20v n/a I5 w/ 169k on the clock! Build date 5/89: This makes it an early CQ with the stamped control arms, no airbag, metal sunroof, stainless "pile o' snakes exhaust header (preferred over the later cast manifold), and the parcel shelf under the steering wheel. It's basically a 16v w/ an extra cylinder. I've always wanted one of these cars... I guess I'm a glutton for punishment buying weird somewhat rare cars that eat money and time. I got a fantastic deal on it since it's technically a project car. Meaning it's currently not running. It last ran (and very strong I'm told) 4 years ago! :eek: So I will be getting out the fine tooth comb. The driveline was attended to, so no rear diff slop. Exhaust is good. Tires (on steelies) and brakes are good. Relatively new rear control arms and new front control arm not installed. The front CA's need replacing b/c he's got derlin mounts in there now and the squeek something fierce. The interior is pretty decent except for the driver's seat & steering wheel. Electrical components all work. ABS is out (prolly a sensor). Last known A/C worked. Timing belt changed 7k ago. Lowered on H&R springs. Fog lights are toast. Blower motor noisy but works (any thoughts?). New battery, but the engine won't crank. I'll be replacing all ground and other power wires in the bay and go from there. I may need some help trouble shooting (*wink* Vinnie? Ryan? anybody? *wink*) b/c I think it's managed by a version of CIS... yuck.

The front end body parts were replaced with B4 parts, except for the headlights... on the look out for them. As a result, the front is black and the rest of the car is red (well a faded pik really). I'll prolly enlist Jake to help me spray bomb it sometime. If I'm not paying to get the Rado sprayed, then I'm not gonna spend it on a good paint job for a winter whip. I just don't really like the Franken-car look. Rust is minimal. The worst is the driver door and he's got a replacement door included in the project. He's also including a Momo Concourse wheel (I'll need an adapter, so LMK if you have or see one that will work!!), Bentley (WOOHOO!!), timing belt tools, Kamei B4 Metal grille, CAI, an extra front bumper, and various other extra parts.

The guy I'm buying it from is an Audi guy and has a 95.5 S6 Avant and a 99 A4. He's a fantastic guy and I hope he signs up on the forums soon. Anyway, I could go on and on about the car, but I gotta stop sometime. Here's a link to a slideshow of pics... CQ pics link (http://www.flickr.com/photos/67289540@N00/sets/72157602550754870/show/) (let me know if the link doesn't work for you... it's a flickr thing and should work for everybody).

Here's a few teaser pics...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2327/1653020658_7fe232be35.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2248/1653019340_2360cd1fca.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2267/1652154427_43545c9840.jpg

So lemme know your thoughts! I'm open to exterior painting ideas and anything that won't cost much $$. The first order of business will be to get fluids changed, tuned up, and of course running. I can't wait for some awd snow fun!! :icon_biggrin:

[All_for_Aria]

She's a beaut!!!!!!

I would suggest not rattle canning her, Rob (meatwad!) does a pretty good cheapo paint job from what I've seen.

I don't envy your task of trouble shooting why it doesn't run, starting from the "ground" up is a great start. The only problem I ever had with my old 4000cs Quattro was a grounding issue that caused the car to not run. So, with all the frustrations ahead aside, looks like it will be alot of fun!

[BUNNYLOVE]

Cool project!

"Blower motor noisy but works (any thoughts?)" This is really common, my Audi 80 had the same problem. The blower motor is pretty easy to swap out on it and it shares this part with a MK2 so you should be able to get one easily.

On the no crank issue I would test for power at the starter solenoid wire first. It could be the ign. switch, a fuse or the relay. Or maybe the bendix is just stuck and it needs a little wack. Or like Rob said a poor ground would do it.

[crew219]

Matte black would be hot . . .

[lotar_6]

I figured some parts would be shared w/ MkII's... I'm glad this blower motor is an easy cheap fix. After grounds, the starter solenoid was next on my list. I've had solenoids go bad b4, so I hope it's that easy. If not, I'll definitely whack it!! I really don't think it'll take much to get it road worthy.

:smile:

[vwremglx]

way cool man.. :-) sweet!!

[lotar_6]

Matte black would be hot . . .

EXACTLY what I was thinking!!!!!

[FusLit]

Awesome man! I've always loved those cars.

Very cool

-Todd

[iceVee]

Cool project!

"Blower motor noisy but works (any thoughts?)" This is really common, my Audi 80 had the same problem. The blower motor is pretty easy to swap out on it and it shares this part with a MK2 so you should be able to get one easily.

On the no crank issue I would test for power at the starter solenoid wire first. It could be the ign. switch, a fuse or the relay. Or maybe the bendix is just stuck and it needs a little wack. Or like Rob said a poor ground would do it.

Kyle, I've got several different Mk2 blower motors, including a new-in-box unit. Lemme know if you want one.

[VWTUNING]

<------- jealous!

I cant wait till I get something AWD for the winter :)

[USOPHUNKE]

sweeetness.. now 3 of us on here own corrado's and audi's ... its the perfect match up

well you know this is one of my fav cars ever....

[crew219]

Does this mean you're ready to strip down the corrado? :)

[boostin20v]

I forwarded the description to my buddy who is a late 80s early 90s nut (and who has a lot of spare parts), he might have suggestions.

[lotar_6]

Kyle, I've got several different Mk2 blower motors, including a new-in-box unit. Lemme know if you want one.

Once I get her running and see how bad it is, I'll let you know! Thanks for the offer!! :smile:

<------- jealous!
well you know this is one of my fav cars ever....

The main reason I bought it was to make you two jealous! :icon_bah::icon_woot:

Who else has a Rado and Audi?

Does this mean you're ready to strip down the corrado? :)

You a funny man! I like having the Rado appear mostly stock and I love the interior. It's gonna stay that way. I just need to decide if I'll ice race the CQ... I doubt it.

I forwarded the description to my buddy who is a late 80s early 90s nut (and who has a lot of spare parts), he might have suggestions.

Thanks, Stu! I'm very open to ideas... especially trouble shooting / diagnostic ones. Since it was running when parked, I'm sure the not-turning over is something simple.

Anybody know if a MkII or III ignition switch will work in this car? I bought one not long ago for emergencies.

Also.... it looks like the seller has an extra Momo hub mixed in with parts that he's gonna include!! WOOT!

[iceVee]

I just need to decide if I'll ice race the CQ... I doubt it.




What the??? Hey, this is the perfect ice car! I won the Street Tire Open Class last year in a CQ...

Besides, this year I'll probably drive my iX in Street Tire (unless last year's Quattro ride is still available.) If I can take the iX out there, you should be able to run the CQ, yes?

Even if you aren't willing to run wheel-to-wheel, I'd like to coordinate an ice autocross this year, so consider that. Also, there's usually an ice auto-X at the Pittsfield (Mass) winter carnival in February, which I might try to attend if we aren't racing around here somewhere.

Just trying to be a bad influence...

-K

[lotar_6]

don't get me wrong... I really WANT to race it, but the w-2-w does scare me. It's hard to find parts for these and I don't really want banged up body work. Maybe I'll just go slow and stay out of people's way. I'll definitely do an auto-x!! Just keep me informed.

[iceVee]

don't get me wrong... I really WANT to race it, but the w-2-w does scare me. It's hard to find parts for these and I don't really want banged up body work. Maybe I'll just go slow and stay out of people's way. I'll definitely do an auto-x!! Just keep me informed.

Much better to go fast and stay out of peoples' way :laugh: That was the approach I took with my friend Pete's coupe, since those fenders are truly expensive ('83 CQ turbo).

All kidding aside, it's a tough call. The rules in street are "no contact", but all it takes is one mistake (or one idiot) and you have a dent. I've never hit anyone, or had anyone hit me, in street tire, but it's been dicey a couple of times. People have brought some pretty nice cars out in the past, including a bunch of Audis. One guy even ran his Lancer EVO. His car was worth more than the whole rest of the field...

[Jackalope]

from another conversation going on today...

http://www.fastdubs.org/forums/showthread.php?p=73931#post73931

Not sure if you've driven through Dryden lately, but it may be worth a gawk-n-a-half if you slow way down and look what's beyond all the Mercedes. Stellicks Auto Sales. It's been there all summer.

[B4passatglx]

Who else has a Rado and Audi?


I think Shawn is the 3rd guy? right?

[VWTUNING]

from another conversation going on today...

http://www.fastdubs.org/forums/showthread.php?p=73931#post73931

Not sure if you've driven through Dryden lately, but it may be worth a gawk-n-a-half if you slow way down and look what's beyond all the Mercedes. Stellicks Auto Sales. It's been there all summer.


whats been there all summer? got a line on some cheap quattro for me??? :rofl:

is this the place? (http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=osP&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=Stelick&near=Dryden,+NY&fb=1&view=text&latlng=42490287,-76306678,5903322174437533801)


edit: i just saw your other post:

Too bad I didn't know you were looking...

Anyone else wants one....?

Downtown Dryden there is this old garage that has a bunch of old Mercedes, a later model MG (sold), 2 6-series Bimmers (black), and a red Audi that looks just like this one...had a nice set of 15" 5-spoke knock offs (steelies now).

Can stop and get picks this weekend if anyone want a looksie without the drive.

please please please! pics would be awesome :smile: and if you can find out if its quattro that would be much appreciated :beer:

[B4passatglx]

oh I know what place your reffering to. I drive by it when I visit my GF at Ithaca college.

Have been eyeballing that old school E28 BMW 524TD turbo diesel

[lotar_6]

I think Shawn is the 3rd guy? right?

Ah yes... he goes thru so many cars I forgot he had a Rado... DUH! He's the only one I know that has a CQ in the club. What ever happened to the CQ in Cortland that guy was selling?

[RichB]

Sounds like a cool car Kyle. The perfect car for those snowy winter monthly GTG trips! :smile:

[Jackalope]

whats been there all summer? got a line on some cheap quattro for me??? :rofl:

is this the place? (http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=osP&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=Stelick&near=Dryden,+NY&fb=1&view=text&latlng=42490287,-76306678,5903322174437533801)


edit: i just saw your other post:



please please please! pics would be awesome :smile: and if you can find out if its quattro that would be much appreciated :beer:


1higti got the one I was referring to. Looked clean, no dents. Sorry no secret Audi magic in my possesion, but just call me a gawker...when I'm behind the wheel, one eye on the road, the other is looking in the back yard to see if anything is worth asking if it can be sold for parts or maybe it's been dragged out of a barn or something...missed my chance on a pair of Healy's a couple years ago. No not the sneaks with wheels...:wink:

[976]

now all you need to do is find an old s4 c4 motor and drop it in!!! i520vt!!! thats what this car needs... direct drop i think

[car_whore]

Kyle I see how it is your so quick to forget about me.

One thing you need to pay close attention to is the brake bomb. These cars us a hydraulic brake pressure accumulator (read very expensive ~$600) that tends to break especially after setting for a while. Mine failed without showing any previous signs of there being an issue with it and it caused me to go over a 4 foot bank at about 50 because I had no brakes. I'm not trying to scare you, but it was not a fun experience and getting new headlights, windshield, pass fender, front bumper, rad and rad support were not an easy task.

The fuel system uses an old Hitachi fuel injection system that you are almost guaranteed to have to replace at some time because the injectors fail and are very expensive to replace. I have my old ones somewhere though if you need them to trouble shoot if you have an issue with yours. Here is the link for the new style injectors, well worth the money. http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=329

Check all of the ball joints good to, because I had one fail while I was driving and it took a few other parts with it.

These cars are very fun and for the most part mine has been trouble free for me, but when they decide to act up it can get expensive quick, but your use to that by now I'm sure. Mine is pushing 250K now and I still bring it up to about 7,000 rpms every time I drive it with no issues right now. They love to rev up and don't have much power down low which makes them great on the highway. If you have any other questions about it let me know I've had mine apart several times.

These guys should be getting a big order from you soon since they have some of the best selection of parts for these cars. http://www.034motorsport.com/

[car_whore]

More useful links and proof that they do exist.

http://www.shokan.com/
www.2bennett.com
http://www.4usedaudiparts.com/
http://specializedgerman.com/
http://20v.org/
http://www.force5auto.com/

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/682496_fea32/F4SLVY9QTIAISQX.JPG

[boostin20v]

These guys should be getting a big order from you soon since they have some of the best selection of parts for these cars. http://www.034motorsport.com/

If you do put together an order to place with them let me know and I can likely get you a better price rather than going direct!

[lotar_6]

Thanks Shawn! I didn't forget about you... just that you also had a Rado. How I could forget that, I'll never know... guess I just had CQ on the brain. I went to 20v.org (http://20v.org/) as soon as I realized the CQ was an actual possibility and read about the bomb, rear diff bushing, fuel injectors, ABS issues, and all the other issues related to these cars. I also learned about 034, 2bennet, and Force5 as I was reading. Thanks for all the links, tho!! One of the first things I'm gonna do is replace all the fluids. I'll probably start with the ps/brake accum hydro fluid (pentosin 11s) and pray the diaphragm and rack seals aren't toast.... Those two components are what scares me the most about the car I'm purchasing. Mostly b/c it's been sitting for so long. I'll pop new seals in the injectors and will eventually send them out to be cleaned. They should be ok, but who knows. I'll hit you up if I need to borrow some injectors! The guy selling it spent the majority of his time on the suspension. Most of the bushings and links have been replaced w/in 7k miles. I'll mos. def. check them out, tho.

btw, have you seen anybody s/c these cars? I'm thinking a twin screw would eliminate the low rpm torque issues! :smile:

If you do put together an order to place with them let me know and I can likely get you a better price rather than going direct!

kewl! I sure will. I hope I don't, but I will if the need arises!

[USOPHUNKE]

I have an ultrasonic cleaner at work and can do the injectors for you.. I could actually sign it out and bring it home and do a bunch since I need to do allstar's too.

what would you put in it to clean them?

[lotar_6]

I have an ultrasonic cleaner at work and can do the injectors for you.. I could actually sign it out and bring it home and do a bunch since I need to do allstar's too.

what would you put in it to clean them?

dooooood... that would rock!! Can I get ya to do the VR injectors, too?!

As for cleaning solution, idk... Dave found a place in Rochester (or Buffalo) that does a cleaning service by mail. They even test the spray pattern & flow rate b4 and after. Anything will be better than nothing imo. I'll try to hunt down a good product to use.

[USOPHUNKE]

yeah I can only clean them and pulse them to do the internals... I guess it would be possible to hook them up to pressure and check the pattern. I would have to do some research on that. I have thought about starting a side job doing them as its pretty easy.

[car_whore]

Kyle just make sure your extra careful when you take them out of the coupe because the Hitachi's break very easy. IMO the $300 spent on the injector upgrade is well worth it for the extra little increase in power and reliability. It's good that you found 20v.org first there is a ton of good info on there that helps a lot when you have an issue since there aren't many people that actually have these cars. It sounds like your on the right path with the car and I'm sure it will turn out great. You will be amazed at how these things handle in the snow, especially with studded snows. I haven't found a hill or snow bank i couldn't make it through yet, including when i had snow over the top of the hood.

I have always thought a supercharger setup would be awesome on one of these cars and someday when I have some more time to spend on this car I will research it a lot more. My car will be due for a rebuild within the next year I'm afraid so I'm going going to make my own stroker kit using the combination of my motor and one of the vanagan I5 motors. It's very straight forward and inexpensive to do from what I've been told and it bumps up the power quite a bit.

[lotar_6]

...My car will be due for a rebuild within the next year I'm afraid so I'm going going to make my own stroker kit using the combination of my motor and one of the vanagan I5 motors. It's very straight forward and inexpensive to do from what I've been told and it bumps up the power quite a bit.

I found a guy on the tex selling off various 20v parts and mixed in with them was a 2.5 I5 intake mani w/ a VW molded into it.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g136/Vw4eric/IM001204.jpg

Is this from the vanagan and will it bolt on to the 7a and fit under the hood? I'd love to see details about the stroker conversion!!

I'll get to the injector conversion when I have to. Until I get the bike sold (maybe soon, but prolly in the spring) I can't spend a whole lot. Just maintenance (and maybe paint) until next year.

[car_whore]

Kyle, I'll look again for the info on how to do the stroker motor and what parts you need, but from what I remember it was very easy and straigt forward.

[lotar_6]

my mind keeps asking me questions I can't answer...

if the above intake mani will fit, will I need the fuel rail from that car, too (he's got it)? And if so, would this eliminate the injector issue or cause other issues ECU related to fuel management? Or does the CQ injector rail drop in it, too?


yeah, post up a link of the stroker info... maybe I'll get to it someday!

[turbosnow]

Cool deal Kyle I wanna see vids of the snow-donuts this winter....

[lotar_6]

Cool deal Kyle I wanna see vids of the snow-donuts this winter....

you got it!! :icon_tup:

On a side note, Marie's got a line on a job @ SU and she's already talking to me about getting a TDI! lolz... first a cabby, now a TDI... maybe I'll talk her into a TDI cabby!!

[VWTUNING]

Cool deal Kyle I wanna see vids of the snow-donuts this winter....



ditto! :cool:

[b5crazy]

Kyle, Is this the look you are trying to get?

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r99/deadl3g/fall%20Show%20n%20Go%202007/DSC_0016.jpg

[lotar_6]

lol... It might be cool if my hood was CF... but that's not me. I did catch a guy that put a Rado RS bumper on his 90....

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/deeohhdubelgee/stuff.ugoi032.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/deeohhdubelgee/stuff.ugoi021.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g288/deeohhdubelgee/auddiii.jpg

I kinda like it! The true (and original!) RS bumpers are about $1,800 if you can find them. The Rado RS bumper is ~$200. It kinda follows the body lines, but required cutting and trimming. I'd have to shave it to keep the front rebar.

[FusLit]

you got it!! :icon_tup:

On a side note, Marie's got a line on a job @ SU and she's already talking to me about getting a TDI! lolz... first a cabby, now a TDI... maybe I'll talk her into a TDI cabby!!

Tell her good luck, but that's gonna be one hellova commute :-X

-Todd

[lotar_6]

Tell her good luck, but that's gonna be one hellova commute :-X

-Todd

werd. But she could manage 2 or 3 days on campus and work from home the rest. We also talked about moving to the other side of the lake. Of cousre this is all dependent on her getting the job. And we won't know anything about that until Feb or March... or later.

[BUNNYLOVE]

On that manifold.. I'm pretty sure the Vanagon 2.5 is a 10V engine so it won't work on a 20V.
You can see the head shield in the pic too for the exhaust manifold, its a counter flow head like a VW 8V.

[lotar_6]

Ok, so big thanks to Stu for the loan of the trailer!! I put a brake controller on the truck and it worked like a charm w/ the elec. brakes on the trailer. The drive was a long one as the car was located up near Burlington, VT. As a result I got to ride a ferry (not a fairy) accross Lake Champlain. I missed the ferry coming back by about 3 min's... so that added 1/2 hour to my trip. But it still was a nice break from driving. The p.o., Paul, is a super nice guy! We chatted for a good hour and a half about VAG stuff... mostly the CQ. I ended up receiving from him an extra bumper, a new passenger door, an extra set of G60 calipers, tools, a Bentley, and boxes of other parts! He even insisted on dropping the agreed price by $100 since I drove so far!!! wow!

So I've got a bit of work to do, but hope to have her on the road in 2 weeks or less. If it's a winter car, it needs to be on the road in the winter. Anyway, I'm gonna start by cleaning the fuel tank and system. I think there might be a super easy fix to the starting issue, but more about that later. here's some pics for now...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2119/1789670591_569b787d8e.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2030/1789671187_ad839256d5.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2330/1789672943_4c9cb7f003.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2289/1789673549_122c02282b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2216/1789671645_fa282a28c9.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2065/1789673991_6b75a284d5.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2288/1789672197_70c539bede.jpg

[boostin20v]

Glad to assist! Trip looks like it was a lot of fun.

[RichB]

Woot! I like ferry rides! :smile: (and CQ's too!) :laugh:

[USOPHUNKE]

awsome.... looks like it was fun. burlington is one of my most fav places.

[FusLit]

Sweetness Kyle!

Glad you got it home safe and sound! :)

-Todd

[VWTUNING]

Sweetness Kyle!

Glad you got it home safe and sound! :)

-Todd


x2!


Congrats man!

[b5crazy]

Nothing like a successful road trip!

Time to put an extension on your garage!

[lotar_6]

So I got into it last night. Not too bad for a car that's been sitting. The brakes are in worse shape than I thought. Nothing that rotors and pads won't fix. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the rear calipers are still good. I'll find out later when I compress them. The seals look good, though and the e-brake cables seem to not be frozen... there's hope. It's funny though about the recent discussion about slotted rotors and salt. This car had ATE power slots on the front and drilled in the back! The rust build-up in the slots was amazing!! The rust in the drills was bad, but no cracking. I might be able to turn the rears (not gonna bother tho), but the fronts are gone imo.

So far, new pads, rotors, guide boot kits, plug wires, cap & rotor, crank case breather tube, and ignition switch ($9... just in case) have been ordered. I already have the fuel filter, oil & filter, cooling flush, coolant, thermostat, tranny oil, diff oil, brake fluid, pentosin (for p/s & brake boost), and spark plugs. I'm picking up VHT (for caliper carriers and discs... I'll get to the calipers next summer), brake cleaner, LOTS more PB Blaster (killed a can pretty quick last night!), a hood lift, brake resevoir cap, and a rear caliper compression tool loaner today. I'm gonna pull the fuel pump to clean it and get any crap (and old fuel) in the tank out. I'll be testing various electrical systems and hopefully cranking it by the weekend. The big thing I'd like to address after getting it running is replacing the front control arm bushings since he has Derlin bushings and they squeak something fierce!!

[USOPHUNKE]

sounds like fun.....

pb blaster for the win!!!

does that have girling 56 or 60 brakes like a rado

[FusLit]

Sounds like you got a plan man :)

Can't wait to see it in person.

-Todd

[boostin20v]

The big thing I'd like to address after getting it running is replacing the front control arm bushings since he has Derlin bushings and they squeak something fierce!!

whiner :laugh:

[lotar_6]

sounds like fun.....

pb blaster for the win!!!

does that have girling 56 or 60 brakes like a rado

yeah, PB Blaster is the shiznit! The brakes are Girling 60's (two piston) and they are not on a Rado. They're frigg'n huge and heavy!

whiner :laugh:

yo moma!


I am used to squeeks and rattles after going full polly on the Rado, but this is figg'n rediculous!! For the short-run I'm gonna try to lubricate them repeatedly over the next week or so. Control arms are expensive for this car! Good thing I only need one!

[1highGTI]

hey man give me a call this weekend when you work on it i'll come hangout for a bit being on vacation sucks when you have no place to go or nothing too do...

[lotar_6]

I think I'm gonna skip beers tomorrow and work on it some more if you wanna swing by. I've been busy w/ trick or treating, but it's over now... I'm not sure what's going down on the weekend. Sunday is out, tho.

[lotar_6]

So I've been doing little things while waiting on parts. I sure hope they show up b4 the weekend! So, the starter is/was an issue. The wire from the starter to the solenoid crumbled to the touch. I soldered on a new wire which was NOT easy. I hooked it up to bench test and nothing happened. It appears the solenoid is bad. So in disconnecting the solenoid, the wire fell off again. It was a pita to solder and I was destroying the rubber grommet, so I just got a new starter...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2122/1902922654_8f0f75cae7.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2109/1902921564_4ce0b44820.jpg

Plug wires were chewed by a critter, so new ones w/ cap & rotor are on the way. I haven't found any other damage yet and I've gone over the engine pretty well. I should be able to start the car as is if they don't show up by the weekend, but I'd love them to be done...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2396/1902077107_74deea4e8b.jpg

I got into the gas tank last night. I was VERY surprised how clean everything looked!! Very little residue in the tank and I think I'm in very good shape! (knock on wood) The filter mounts were very corroded, so they are soaking in PB for now.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2062/1902075817_b6c6aa3cbb.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2178/1902076015_310a28772b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2417/1902922162_636e7f93ba.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2273/1902076451_23913c534f.jpg

The brakes were in tough shape, so those parts are in route. I did get the carriers painted, but the calipers will wait till spring. I know the front calipers are ok, but I'm crossing my fingers about the rears! They don't look pretty, but the seals look great. Once the parts arrive I'll compress them, flush the system, and see how they work. I'm fairly certain they'll be ok. The hydraulic boost & p/s system is where my concern lies....

Beyond that, I've done some minor things like plugs, oil, n' such. I did get bored over the weekend and took a few minutes to see what Vanilla Moose could do for my paint...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2253/1862203656_60e4cd2bc5.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2375/1861376553_4806209f01.jpg

The pics don't do it justice! I am completely amazed at how the paint came back to life!! I've decided to keep it red since the bay and door jams are red and I hate the cheapness of a paint job that shows those areas not painted. I ground down the rust spots on the hood and primered those areas, so the spots wouldn't get worse. Now I just gotta find somebody to paint the fender and hood to match (as close as the gov't could get it anyway)... for cheap. Also, I'm gonna ask Dave to borrow his rotory and buy a pad from him. I was told by Jeff all the Audi red paint jobs pre-'99 had no clear coat... so the pad will be pink / red by the time I'm done with it! This will be a good opportunity for me to learn how to use the tool as well. I was skeered using it on the Rado... but not on this whip!

more to come...

[crew219]

Kyle, you're gonna need a lot more than one pad for that paint . . . .

The other thing is that single stage paint that old is slightly tricky to work with since you have no real gauge as to how much paint you're compounding and polishing. Luckily the paint tends to be softer and easier to work with, but I can tell you that vanilla moose isn't going to cut it for the job. While the panel looks great, keep in mind that vanilla moose is a glaze and hides a significant part of the defects.

For your paint, i'd look at purchasing 2x LC purple foamed wool pads, and probably 2 or so foam polishing pads as well as spot pads. The wool pads will allow you to cut down the oxidation and remove significant defects without heating up the paint as much as you would with a foam pad. Unfortunately the residue from SS paint tends to really gum up the pads and render them useless. Cleaning will marginally help. I'd keep the speeds very slow and use a medium and light polish with plenty of lubricants such as Menzerna SIP, PO106FF or perhaps look at Presta ultra cutting creme / chroma, Optimum polish or a few of the 3m line polishes.

Dave

[VWTUNING]

Nice work Kyle, looks like she'll be running in no time :icon_cool:

[FusLit]

Looks good man, I think you could give the starter another go if you felt the urge, but the new one works just as well. nice to see the paint cleaning up as nice as it is.

Keep at it :)

-Todd

[Jackalope]

Lookin' good.

[lotar_6]

Thanks everybody! keep in mind that it is managed by a form of CIS, so I'm not out of the woods by any means!

Kyle, you're gonna need a lot more than one pad for that paint . . . .

The other thing is that single stage paint that old is slightly tricky to work with since you have no real gauge as to how much paint you're compounding and polishing. Luckily the paint tends to be softer and easier to work with, but I can tell you that vanilla moose isn't going to cut it for the job. While the panel looks great, keep in mind that vanilla moose is a glaze and hides a significant part of the defects.

For your paint, i'd look at purchasing 2x LC purple foamed wool pads, and probably 2 or so foam polishing pads as well as spot pads. The wool pads will allow you to cut down the oxidation and remove significant defects without heating up the paint as much as you would with a foam pad. Unfortunately the residue from SS paint tends to really gum up the pads and render them useless. Cleaning will marginally help. I'd keep the speeds very slow and use a medium and light polish with plenty of lubricants such as Menzerna SIP, PO106FF or perhaps look at Presta ultra cutting creme / chroma, Optimum polish or a few of the 3m line polishes.

Dave

I <3 Dave!!

ok so... I need to buy more isht. dam.

I'll talk to you about it sometime and get a list together. Keep in mind that I don't necessarily want it to be 'perfect' but I do want it to look better! Minimizing the $$ spent is key.

[crew219]

Thanks everybody! keep in mind that it is managed by a form of CIS, so I'm not out of the woods by any means!



I <3 Dave!!

ok so... I need to buy more isht. dam.

I'll talk to you about it sometime and get a list together. Keep in mind that I don't necessarily want it to be 'perfect' but I do want it to look better! Minimizing the $$ spent is key.

Right, I'd assume that you'd want it as close to perfect as possible if you're going to put on newly painted parts . . . . :wink:

Going from better to perfect doesn't actually take that long. Either way, with the age of the paint and the amount that may have be be removed, you'll want to think about taping off your fenders & etc if you ever do any serious work on the car, since there won't be much more left to polish off.

Generally a car of that age can go through 1-2 heavy compounding / polish cycles before the paint gets dangerously thin.

Dave

[lotar_6]

So... I got a lil' done today. I got the brakes re-assembled. The rear calipers appear to be fine, but I still need to flush the fluid and bleed the brakes.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2409/1954795503_cc03b209ca.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2226/1955625300_712b59bbe7.jpg

I got my cap, rotor, plugs, & plug wires in. I found the main engine ground wire got a bit chewed by the critterz, so I replaced it.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2366/1955626122_d3051f9157.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2263/1954794591_64f18f2af5.jpg

Then I finally got down to business. I got the battery back in and put new gas in the tank since I pumped out all the old junk. All the electrics work and the fuel pump roared to life. I primed it a few times since I replaced the filter and turned the key... nothing. at all. So I dove into the fuses checking each one. All of them appeared to be just fine, but I was missing a relay for the rad fan. That shouldn't keep me from running or starting, tho. I then pinpointed the fuse for the starter and replaced it... nothing. I then replaced the fuse for the "On - Run" as it was labeled... WALA!!! It fired right up and idled just great! I let it idle for a minute and blipped the throttle. No misfires, hesitation, or nothing! The lifters are noisy, but that's common on these engines and this one's been sitting for a while. No biggie. The good news is that it apprears to be a strong runner! WOOT!!!

So I didn't run it to operating temp b/c I still have to go through the hydraulic system and I didn't want it to charge yet. But now I know I can delve into that. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the hydraulic system is ok. The pressure accumulator is NOT cheap. I did get a link to a guy in PA that rebuilds them for $80, so I'll do that if I have to. So lots of little things to check and finish, but like Todd... I'm on the home stretch!! :smile:

side note... below is a pic of one of three relays in the fuse area. The missing relay location accepts this relay and all the others have the exact same PN. I need to read through the Bentley still, but does anyone know if this will be the same relay for my missing location??

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2115/1954797897_9133f05be3.jpg

can't stop :smile:

[1highGTI]

great news Kyle cant wait till your driving it...

[b5crazy]

Great news Kyle!!! Congrats!!

How is the Rado holding up with all of this diverted attention?:rofl:

[gonzo9]

Congrats, man. That's great news!

[lotar_6]

The Rado is my main motivation right now. I still daily drive it... and it's parked outside! :eek: That was unfortunately part of the agreement with the wife. She wouldn't give up her side of the garage. :frown: But the Rado's holding up well and I have the truck to drive in crappy weather.

And yeah, I can't wait to drive the CQ! :laugh: I hope to be driving it around soon...


So there's this 'ticking' sound from the driver's rear quarter panel that's electrical related. It came on when I turned the ignition on and is a light tap once every second or so. less audible than the fuel pump. It shut off once, but came on and hasn't stopped, so I disconected the battery. The Bentley shows only one control module back there and it's the rear lamp control unit. The lights in the back all work just fine, so idunno... any ideas?

And oh yeah... I don't need the other relay, according to the Bentley it's an unused slot.

[FusLit]

woohoo !
sounds like your getting there :) Maybe you'll have it out by thurs night!

-Todd

[lotar_6]

so i got the fluid in the hydraulic system extracted and I'm ready to try the fill n' charge and test the bomb and servo. I also got the brake fluid flushed, but I need a bleeder screw for the driver's rear caliper... so they are all getting replaced. Then I can finish bleeding. I also cleaned the ISV and got the tranny fluid swapped. The rear diff. is giving me problems, tho. I got the fill plug out np, but the drain plug is in there! A cheater bar and even the impact couldn't budge it. I'm soaking w/ PB, but it's on the bottom of the diff, so idk how well it'll work. I'm probably going to have to make a fluid extractor otherwise.

I also cleaned up a few things and checked hose connections, etc.. I still need to check & clean (or replace since I have one) the lower crank case breather tube that is known to go bad &/or clog up. I should be able to run the car a while tonight and see what else pops up. I won't be able to bleed tonight, b/c the pedal pumper is gonna be out late! No worries... I'll get there.


BTW... still looking for any ideas about my rear ticking sound... it seems as if it's the hazards or something, but the rear lights are all working fine. :confused:

[FusLit]

No idea on the ticking in the rear, abs module, gas tank pump relay, small bomb?

As for your drain plug, maybe try some heat on it? I've got a map-gas torch which has helped immensely with stuff that has been rusted stuck on my timing chain project (tie-rod end, etc etc) But I suppose it depends on how close to a rubber boot/seal it is.

-Todd

[lotar_6]

No idea on the ticking in the rear, abs module, gas tank pump relay, small bomb?

As for your drain plug, maybe try some heat on it? I've got a map-gas torch which has helped immensely with stuff that has been rusted stuck on my timing chain project (tie-rod end, etc etc) But I suppose it depends on how close to a rubber boot/seal it is.

-Todd

or how close to the freak'n gas tank I am! :laugh:

we'll see...

[VWTUNING]

Nice Work!

[car_whore]

Sounds like your making a lot of progress I can't wait to see this thing in action.

[FusLit]

or how close to the freak'n gas tank I am! :laugh:

we'll see...

that'll just add to the excitement :icon_biggrin:

-Todd

[gonzo9]

Fuel pump?

http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=3533811

[lotar_6]

Fuel pump?

http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=3533811

weird. seems to be the exact same issue on an '06 A3! I don't think it's the fuel pump, but I could be wrong (it's happened b4). I just posted in his thread... hopefully somebody in the Audi scene knows what's up.

any ideas, Shawn?

[1highGTI]

great job Kyle the guy i sold the green 80 too is looking to sell it if you know anyone....

[lotar_6]

great job Kyle the guy i sold the green 80 too is looking to sell it if you know anyone....

Pete... here's your cheap AWD Audi!!

[lotar_6]

ok, so here's the scoop from last night's trouble shooting:

GOOD:
-I figured out the tcking sound is actually the Central Lock / Anti-Theft Control Module
-The car ran quite well for 15+ minutes
-The hydraulic system seems to working quite well! I'll know more when it's on the ground
-The thermostat and heater seem to work just fine


BAD:
-I figured out the tcking sound is actually the Central Lock / Anti-Theft Control Module... weird issues described later
-The engine ran at a high idle until warm. throttle blipping did not return to idle for several seconds... until the car warmed up and then it was fine
-ISV seems weird... until the car warmed up
-The dam main radiator has a leak. It was spewing steam out the front and back... unable to pinpoint the location b/c of the a/c condensor and fan shroud
-I think the A/C compressor might be shot
-MFA display is fubar


so I get in the car last night to start it up and nothing. The electronics all work, but no starting. When I get out of the car, the ticking starts back up in the rear of the car. I check the fuse I replaced & replaced it again. nothing. I pull the central lock fuse and the ticking stops. :confused: I replace the fuse and the car turns over. I was shocked so I didn't start it so I try again... I hear a lil' pop and all the electronics shut off. I pull the relay for the Anti-Thfet / Ignition Kill and replace it with the relay from the horn. The car has power again, but won't turn over. The ticking is back. I lock the doors from the inside... the car starts right up! So at this point I'm like "wtf!" but let it run and i have no issues... until I shut the car off after running to temp... then nothing. :mad:

There is a testing procedure for the central lock / antitheft module & system in the Bentley that I'll try tonight. I'm hoping it's the ignition switch and not the module since I have a new switch. I'm affraid that the lock cylinder in the driver's door might be hooked up incorrectly as the po mentioned something about it being replaced. I'm waiting on an e-mail from him that migt offer some insight. ANY IDEAS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!

Also, as the car is running along, it's quite loud... part of it is a loose metal ring on the front of the belt around the A/C compressor. Also the compressor (I think) is making all sorts of garbling sounds. Anybody know what size belt to use to bypass the A/C compressor?

The main radiator is definitely leaking due to all the steam flowing from it. I'm not happy b/c it's a major pita to pull. Plus they are UBER expensive! Maybe I can get it repaired? I'll be checking my options today.

The isv was making a loud droning type sound. While the engine was cold-ish i pulled the plug and the idle dropped, but kept running. As the car warmed up, it was still quite loud, but the idle dropped to ~800 or so. Keep in mind I took the isv off, removed the electrical part, and cleaned it thoroughly. I'm not sure what would casue my SLOWWWWW return to idle after blipping the throttle when it was cold. I know there is some cold start system, but anybody have ideas on what to check?

so that's it for now. I've gotta trouble shoot the anti-theft system and replace the radiator. After that, I should have it on the ground! I'm a lil' bummed, but the set-backs are managable! Please offer ideas if you can!

[lotar_6]

ok, so here's a reply I got from AudiWorld...

Central locking is also, as you said, anti-theft. If you set it off, it will disable the ignition. By the sound of it, someone has unplugged the horn from the alarm output so it wont make noise but the relay will still click. The most obvious reason for this to happen is going to be one of the door triggers not being properly aligned. Check the Bentley for door lock mechanisms and there is a micro switch on each one of the door lock tumblers that either turns on/off the alarm when using the key to unlock the car.

These are notoriously hard to adjust so take your time and make sure it works before putting the door back together. There are two sets of wires coming out of the lock area... the one from the lock casting (that's the heater, activated by pulling the handle while locked) the other is the alarm switch.

so now I have something to go on. remember the po said the driver's door lock was replaced... I'm guessing the micro switches on the lock mechanism were not adjusted. Now I get to do my most favorite thing... pulling interior pieces! :icon_tdown:

[FusLit]

Radiator repair Doh what a bummer man, looks like we're both hitting roadblocks :frown:

-Todd

[car_whore]

The anti theft system sucks. I have had a million and one issues with mine and the PO had the worst aftermarket alarm installed on top of it so I know what your dealing with.

I went to a local radiator shop and was able to get a replacement one for around $75 I think, but that was 2-3 years ago.

[lotar_6]

I've gotten some more good feedback about the central locking from audiworld and the w/u on 20v.org is helpful, too. I'm hoping it's pretty simple... but my luck would think otherwise.

Yeah, up until not quite a year ago we didn't even have a local donut shop... I highly doubt I'll find a radiator shop that has what I need! I did find new radiators for just under $200. :err:

[lotar_6]

So I got the rad replaced. The old one was a junkyard swap since "'89 Audi 90" was written on the side of it. It's been run leaky for a while. Once I got it out I could see the carnage...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2094/2038516177_a2fd1d7871.jpg

Here's the new one next to it...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2310/2038516593_1d6a8da01a.jpg

No radiator...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2417/2038516295_9ad8ac2a35.jpg

New radiator...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2218/2039312330_4a764934e7.jpg

I haven't gotten around to finishing my anti-theft control module testing, but here's what it looks like (I know... very exciting)...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2118/2039312666_b52b63408a.jpg

The balck module is the unit. The red module is the rear lamp control module. I'm gonna pull the driver's door card and check the wiring on the lock so see if that solves everything (I hope). But first, I'm gonna take a few minutes to install a convenience factor, since I've got the rear interior pretty much pulled...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2074/2039312422_4389ea7500.jpg

Don't knock the Pioneers! I gottem new for cheap and they work. nuff said. I think that's the moto of this whole project... It's cheap and it works. Well, it will work soon.

Side note: the new radiator didn't have a plug or a screw to plug the drain at the bottom. The old rad had a screw that plugged the drain, but the new assembly doesn't have a screw, just a drain nipple!! So I had to make a drain plug...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2292/2039312560_5af8e2b065.jpg

Anybody else ever done this? I don't get it. I hope it'll work. It fit snug, has good clamps, and holds pressure. I ran the car to temp again and have no leaks! woohoo!

[FusLit]

looking good man, good to see you making progress! If worse comes to worse, get a barbed brass plug from ace, lowes, etc and clamp it in place of the bolt, but it should be ok (and you say it's not leaking)

-Todd

[lotar_6]

a shot of my momo for sng...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2150/2040076743_7dd7291088.jpg

and it was unintentional, but I gotz some yellow in my audi! lol...

[lotar_6]

lol....

I yawned b/c there were no pics to keep me alert... why you yawn'n here? :smile:

[All_for_Aria]

LOL, I was just coming back to erase my post.... Sorry, I thought you were being mean, and this was my sorry retaliation. Sorry, Kyle, I take it back!:icon_doh:

I can't wait to see this car! I love ol' Quattros!

[lotar_6]

LOL, I was just coming back to erase my post.... Sorry, I thought you were being mean, and this was my sorry retaliation. Sorry, Kyle, I take it back!:icon_doh:

I can't wait to see this car! I love ol' Quattros!

gggrrrrrrr!!! I'm mean!! :icon_angry:

:icon_giggle:

If I could just swing by to check your new ride out, I would.... not happen'n tho. I'm wicked excited to see it, so post pics when you can! sure are a lot of new rides around fd!

[All_for_Aria]

I like the fact we are resurrecting older VW's and Audi's. Someone's gotta do it.

[lotar_6]

So I took her for a quick run around the block. She runs well and pulls hard! The idle when cold sticks where ever I let off the throttle. Once warm no issues. I'm gonna take the ISV off for cleaning again and do a little research. The whirrr of the fuel pump is quite loud and the creaking from the front control arm bushings is wicked loud and annoying. The brakes seem fine but she pulls very feintly to the right... maybe it was just the road. I still have to locate a pass. front control arm w/ bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends before I'll get an alignment.

Te speaker install is in progress. I just need to find the speaker leads w/o pulling the head unit. The rear speakers are amplified, so the aftermarket head unit blew the speakers b/c the amps weren't bypassed. So, there are 8 wires running to the speaker. I'll have it squared away soon.

I had to hack the original brackets to have a mount for the new speakers in the stock location. Here's my pictoral process...

old speaker....
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2283/2040062023_cb6de095a0.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2047/2040062325_7ffc6cfb93.jpg
mount depth...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2064/2040856830_729d5fff11.jpg
hacked...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2042/2040855994_853f46f96d.jpg
test fitting...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2188/2040063969_ff4faa7c60.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2399/2040857516_0aca2b878b.jpg
finished...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2047/2040064439_84813cb9eb.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2270/2040065421_075a24843f.jpg

That's all for now. I'll be roll'n soon!

[1highGTI]

nice Kyle i'll have to stop up and hangout again soon...

[lotar_6]

always welcome, Jeff!

So I wasted a crap load of time on the p.p.o.'s wiring hack job. :mad: I think there's still more issues as there was once an aftermarket alarm and I think he did some splicing somewhere b/c the stock anti-theft keeps randomly going off. :mad: I still need to delve into the door, but all the pins check out. Once I connect the battery I can start the car. Once I shut the car off I always have to lock & unlock the car on the passenger's side door (outside) to get the alram to reset! :mad: Either that, or pull the relay, fuse, or battery ground to get it able to start again. I've decided to go ahead and replace the ignition switch... even though I don't want to. I hate electrical issues! :mad:

I also sprung a leak in a fuel line so I replaced that last night. Gas is stinky. Everything is running pretty well, tho. I think my ISV is toast, too. :mad: The car runs so much better cold with it unplugged. The throttle sticking issue is non-existent w/ it unplugged... it just idles way lower than it should cold. I've cleaned the ISV 3 times now with no change. I tried to dissassemble the mechanical portion of the unit to no avail. that dam plug won't budge. I'll keep my eyes open in junk yards and maybe I'll get lucky.

I still need to replace my lower crank case breather hose, but for the most part the car is ready for the road... other than my anti-theft (anti-owner-driving) issue! I'm heading out for the holiday, so I'll get her going next week. Now I've just gotta get the paperwork done...

cheers!

[FusLit]

Great work man! Congrats on getting everything in almost working order!

Enjoy your break from the project, you will be back and cursing it soon enough :icon_biggrin:

-Todd

[1highGTI]

always welcome, Jeff!

So I wasted a crap load of time on the p.p.o.'s wiring hack job. :mad: I think there's still more issues as there was once an aftermarket alarm and I think he did some splicing somewhere b/c the stock anti-theft keeps randomly going off. :mad: I still need to delve into the door, but all the pins check out. Once I connect the battery I can start the car. Once I shut the car off I always have to lock & unlock the car on the passenger's side door (outside) to get the alram to reset! :mad: Either that, or pull the relay, fuse, or battery ground to get it able to start again. I've decided to go ahead and replace the ignition switch... even though I don't want to. I hate electrical issues! :mad:

I also sprung a leak in a fuel line so I replaced that last night. Gas is stinky. Everything is running pretty well, tho. I think my ISV is toast, too. :mad: The car runs so much better cold with it unplugged. The throttle sticking issue is non-existent w/ it unplugged... it just idles way lower than it should cold. I've cleaned the ISV 3 times now with no change. I tried to dissassemble the mechanical portion of the unit to no avail. that dam plug won't budge. I'll keep my eyes open in junk yards and maybe I'll get lucky.

I still need to replace my lower crank case breather hose, but for the most part the car is ready for the road... other than my anti-theft (anti-owner-driving) issue! I'm heading out for the holiday, so I'll get her going next week. Now I've just gotta get the paperwork done...

cheers!


Nice Kyle i am looking at another audi now...lol have a happy turkey day man..

[lotar_6]

Bad news... the Corrado has ice and snow on it! :frown:

Good news... I fixed (well located the problem at least) my electrical issues in the CQ and it's pretty much road worthy!

:icon_mooooh:

Jeff came out to lend a hand tonight and I think that guy is my lucky charm! We did some testing per the Bentley and found that there was a constant feed to arm the system and the pass. side lock was doing it's job, but the driver's side was dead. I simply located the plug for the lock activation of the anti-theft system, unplugged it, and zip tied it up outa the way.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2097/2069863797_db44919128.jpg

I can still use the lock to lock and unlock the car, but it won't arm or disarm the system... but at least it's not tripping the system either. Basically, I could connect the battery and start the car. Once I turned the ignition off, I couldn't start the car again until I rest the system. I'm just gonna install a keless entry and be done with it for now. I'll yank the lock and deal with it when it's warm out.

The other day I yanked the cluster to replace the ignition switch. The switch was in bad shape mechanically, but still worked. It was only a matter of time before it failed, so I'm glad I spent the $13 and did it! Here's the old vs. new...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2403/2070655926_6b9e008ce7.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2419/2069863359_6ab7c15fdd.jpg

When I had the cluster out I think I made a big mistake...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2117/2070656084_04bf108732.jpg

tell me what you think of it.

Anyways... I gotta put the interior back together and that's it for now! I need to source a new pass. side control arm w/ bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends. I gotta get rid of these derlin bushings... they're driving me bonkers! yes, I said "bonkers"! I hope to stretch it's legs w/ a liesurely walk up to 'cuse on Sunday. I'l be sure to bring my tools...

[All_for_Aria]

"Big mistake"? What's wrong with it? Did you do white faced guages? They don't look bad if that is what you meant.....:wink:

[B4passatglx]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2117/2070656084_04bf108732.jpg

Funny how those old Audi 80/90's have interiors that are reminiscent of current Audi's. Its easy to see how the interior evolved into what they look like today. Uber classy

[FusLit]

soon the raddo will be snug and warm

:smile:

-Todd

[1highGTI]

Bad news... the Corrado has ice and snow on it! :frown:

Good news... I fixed (well located the problem at least) my electrical issues in the CQ and it's pretty much road worthy!

:icon_mooooh:

Jeff came out to lend a hand tonight and I think that guy is my lucky charm! We did some testing per the Bentley and found that there was a constant feed to arm the system and the pass. side lock was doing it's job, but the driver's side was dead. I simply located the plug for the lock activation of the anti-theft system, unplugged it, and zip tied it up outa the way.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2097/2069863797_db44919128.jpg

I can still use the lock to lock and unlock the car, but it won't arm or disarm the system... but at least it's not tripping the system either. Basically, I could connect the battery and start the car. Once I turned the ignition off, I couldn't start the car again until I rest the system. I'm just gonna install a keless entry and be done with it for now. I'll yank the lock and deal with it when it's warm out.

The other day I yanked the cluster to replace the ignition switch. The switch was in bad shape mechanically, but still worked. It was only a matter of time before it failed, so I'm glad I spent the $13 and did it! Here's the old vs. new...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2403/2070655926_6b9e008ce7.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2419/2069863359_6ab7c15fdd.jpg

When I had the cluster out I think I made a big mistake...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2117/2070656084_04bf108732.jpg

tell me what you think of it.

Anyways... I gotta put the interior back together and that's it for now! I need to source a new pass. side control arm w/ bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends. I gotta get rid of these derlin bushings... they're driving me bonkers! yes, I said "bonkers"! I hope to stretch it's legs w/ a liesurely walk up to 'cuse on Sunday. I'l be sure to bring my tools...


i'll tag along if you dont mind... let me know

[lotar_6]

So I drove the car to work today and it did great this morning. On the way down for beerz w/ the guys one of my belts started squealing. Rev a bit and it goes away. come to a stop and does it again. over and over. Then I reve to get it to stop and my dash lights up... ya know, it's christmas time. So I roll into Advance and buy some jumper cables and a new alternator belt and a hydraulic pump belt for my peace of mind. Met up w/ Todd and chilled @ Moes w/ Chris & Nick. Todd followed me home, but I had no problems making it home since the battery is ony a few months old. Thanks Todd!

I swapped the belt out after I got the munchkin to bed. The belt didn't break, but had a lil' small chunk out of it. I finally figured out what the stoopid belly pans are for! The pulleys are fine and the new belt is snug. I also tightened up the hydr. belt while I was in there. I ended up snapping the head of a bolt off on the rad support brace. Just drilled it out and put in a new bolt.

Glad I'm driving it around b4 a long trip to syracuse.

[evolveVW]

excellent!

[Jackalope]

With patience, joyous you will be. - Yoda

Nice work Kyle.

[car_whore]

nice work:icon_tup: Your going to love that car once you get all the little issues worked out. I hope to fix my cooling issues on mine tonight so I can start driving it again.

[FusLit]

Awesome man, glad you were able to get it up and running with minimal fuss.

It's a sweet car :icon_happy: and once you've gotten it reliable I think you'll be quite happy with it.

-Todd

[lotar_6]

thnx everybody... i guess the belt monster is on the loose... Nom Nom Nom.

So far I do like it a lot, w/ the exception of the infernal creaking! I'm having trouble sourcing a new CA, so I might try to just replace the bushings... I'm just concerend about getting the derlin's out. There's pretty good power to the engine. It's not quite the VR pull (especially with the drive-train loss), but enuff to get up n' go! The car is a bit "top heavy" in feel, but again I'm spoiled by the Rado. The only thing I don't like about it is the seats. I like the look and feel, but they sit way too high for me. I'm gonna have to keep a can of static guard in the car for my hair... just like my dad had to do in his Rocco!

I made it to work w/o any issues and I think I'm set for now. I've just got to give the exterior some love and I'll be happy. I hate driving a multi-colored car... well, multi-colored not by design. I have a rust spot on the roof near the windshield that I'll clean up this weekend. This just means I'll have to paint the roof too... :frown: As a result I'm thinking of alternate paint schemes since it's gonna be very hard to blend red into faded red. Since it will be a winter car for me, I'm thinking about some sort of rally themed paint scheme w/ red being the base. Something kinda simple w/ one or two other colors (I'm thinking red base w/ black and silver... something block like). I also want to put some Hella 500's on the front some how (lemme know if you see any round rally lights for cheap!). Idea's are welcome!! And some pics for inspiration...

http://www.20v.org/s2splash.gif
http://www.20v.org/rally1.jpg
http://www.autocult.com.au/img/gallery/full/hologram47.jpg
:icon_yeahthat:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1075/1430105211_3156499083_b.jpg
I kinda like the idea of the hood/roof thing here. Not sure how to play it in the back if at all, tho.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/1morelap/gotaudi.jpg
http://www.finelines-art.co.uk/vehicles/audi/quattro01.jpg
http://www.rimoftheworldrally.com/images/2000/20_lr.jpg

I also will need to find a new bumper cover as some point. The stock one I have is just falling appart and will take more to fix than it's worth... at least to me. Anybody have a B3 Passat bumper lying around I could borrow/buy? I hear they fit ok w/o much modification. I'd like to find something to give it a little different look, but still flow with the body.

[VWTUNING]

Nice work Kyle! Whats the total invested so far? (if ya dont mind me asking)

If ya do the rally theme ya gotta hook up some giant fog/driving lights :icon_cool:

[lotar_6]

wow... I made it over 100 posts into the thread w/o anybody asking the cost! I'm impressed. I'd rather not say exactly, but it's considerably less than what either Gabe or Rob have into their new projects! :wink:

That being said, I'm nowhere near being done. I've got some stuff I need to do and some stuff I want to do. The need isn't that expensive, but the want can go for miles! I've gotta figure out if I'm gonna keep it and for how long. I don't want to go overboard as I'd like to keep it as close to stock as I can and still have a few fun mods. The paint needs to happen, so that's one want that is kind of also a need. However I need to keep the paint cheap, but make it fun... if you can follow!

[boostin20v]

an Audi 80/90 bumper will fit too, just another option.

[RichB]

I really like the red/silver scheme with the big ass lights (just the thing to let certain Ithaca drivers to get the eff out of your way! :smile::laugh:)

[turbosnow]

Hey Kyle glad to see htis coming along so well....have you tried spraying the delrin bushings liberally with some dry silicone lube? Not sure i it would work but it might make the squeaking better and the delrin will last forever so if you can get the annoying part gone it seems like it would be worth it to keep them. too bad they didn't make them out of AF (teflon impregnated) delrin...

[lotar_6]

Hey Kyle glad to see htis coming along so well....have you tried spraying the delrin bushings liberally with some dry silicone lube? Not sure i it would work but it might make the squeaking better and the delrin will last forever so if you can get the annoying part gone it seems like it would be worth it to keep them. too bad they didn't make them out of AF (teflon impregnated) delrin...

thnx, Adam! yeah, when the car was in the air & tire-less I doused them liberally with PB for several days and then w/ silicone lube for several days after that... not even a hint of being better! :mad: I may give it one more try, but I don't really think it'll make much difference. Even if I do get it lubed well, I'll have to keep doing it given the environment in which it will be driven. IDK... maybe it would be less of a PITA than replacing them every 4-5 years.

[gonzo9]

Kyle, this is my favorite paint/light scheme:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v86/1morelap/gotaudi.jpg


I'm saying this because I like the paint design, not because it says "Subaru" on the windshield. What on earth is Subaru about that Audi? Is that just an example of an identity crisis (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rice_burner#Identity_crisis)?

[All_for_Aria]

Hi Kyle, just thought I would let you know there is a black Audi 80 or 90 (80, I think) Quattro at the pick and pull in E Syracuse! It is black and is complete, hit on the driver's door. I think that is the only damage. The front of the car I believe is mint with perfect foglights. It has both headlight assemblies. One side is in the car, not sure why it would've been removed........ Has three of the four BBS wheels......

[lotar_6]

Hey Chris... yeah that scheme is pretty cool, but I gotta keep a red base color. Those pods are cool, but imo are in danger... bumper takes the snow banks, lights on the front of the bumper is is danger, imo. I like the lights in front of the rad on either side of the rings... maybe set up a bit higher. Also, the suby sticker was b/c suby was sponsoring the event. ;)

Thanks Rob... I could use the headlights if it's the b4 chasis. The fogs wont work on my car... that's a specific peice to the CQ. Besides, I'm prolly gonna do a different bumper cover anyway. I'm also looking for oe mud flaps from an 80/90 preferably b3 chasis. I need to find a way to get up there...

[lotar_6]

ok, so I had some idling issues over the past few days. It would be fine in the morning and then later in the day stall at every stop. Sometimes it would be fine, but not often enough. I poked around yesterday and found a rubber elbow to the TB from the EGR was dry-rotted and had a leak. I also replaced the vacuum line to the rear diff. lock. The idle issue is gone!! But the rear diff. still won't operate correctly.

Besides that, the creaking from the driver front CA bushings is much better, but the pass. side is still noisy. I'll replace the CA bolts later this week and lube them well. I'm also noticing vibrations under load from the front right. I hope it's not a CV... I'd much rather replace a wheel bearing, but idk... I'll check it out this week.

Overall, I'm very happy with it! Unfrotunately the odometer stopped working last week and I can't measure my fuel economy. :mad: I'll look at the connections this week, too. For now... I'm just looking for more snow!!

[lotar_6]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2204/2097977713_b6ac397537.jpg

[boostin20v]

I asked my friend about having a spare control arm, he said just press em out. Regardless he did pass along this good looking website for parts - http://www.blauparts.com/

[car_whore]

Sounds like you have got just about everything sorted out. Soon I'm going to have to start asking you questions when I have to fix stuff on my coupe. Speeking of that the last time I drove the car neither my rear diff or odometer worked and yesturday I went to move my car and the battery was dead. It's that time of year I guess.

[lotar_6]

lol... yeah my odometer stopped working about a week or so ago and my rear diff. lock still doesn't work... but I'll get them sorted out soon. I just keep reading and finding more info. Hopefully I won't have to use all this information!

As for blauparts.com, it's not the best source for pricing, but they do have quality products and few bargains.

I've read a few people's recent posts about CA bushings, and it doesn't seem to be to hard to press out and in. I'm just not sure how much of a PITA it'll be to get the derlin's out. I've decided to give new hardware a shot before I swap out the derlin's tho... gonna call the stealership in a few minutes.

CV question... according to blauparts, vibrations under acceleration in a straight line could be the inner CV, while clicking while turning is most likely the outer CV. I've got vibration that goes away under acceleration, but appears while in gear and off throttle. I will get some vibes on turning while accelerating, but I'm confused. The "feel" is the pass. front side. Any ideas about wheel bearing vs. CV vibes? The sound is kinda droning "whah whah" sound... which makes me feel like it's the wheel bearing. But it doesn't do it ALL the time. It quiets down under acceleration. IDEAS pleez!

[turbosnow]

It sounds like a wheel bearing to me...does it get better or worse depending on which direction you turn? If it was the front it is possible that your massive acceleration is taking enough weight off the bearing to make it stop making the noise...it could also just be a bum tire making all the bad vibes.

[lotar_6]

yeah, I think it's a WB too... it's not really a vibration (although I do feel it in the wheel) but more of a droning sound. It does get a little worse when I turn right, but it only really makes noise when not accelerating. Also, it's much more prominent at highway speeds. 30mph or so there's really nothing to hear... yet another reason I think it's the WB and not the CV.

And btw... this car does not do "massive acceleration"!! It simply can't! :laugh:

[b5crazy]

yeah, I think it's a WB too... it's not really a vibration (although I do feel it in the wheel) but more of a droning sound. It does get a little worse when I turn right, but it only really makes noise when not accelerating. Also, it's much more prominent at highway speeds. 30mph or so there's really nothing to hear... yet another reason I think it's the WB and not the CV.

And btw... this car does not do "massive acceleration"!! It simply can't! :laugh:

Kyle IIRC bad wheel bearings are most noticeable at highway speeds so I think you have already answered your question. Usually just a monotonous humming noise is heard.

[turbosnow]

And btw... this car does not do "massive acceleration"!! It simply can't! :laugh:


I was kinda kidding....having dreams of you swapping a 20v turbo in that bad boy...and making it the car it should have been from the factory...

[lotar_6]

lol... i know...


3b swap, right?! :icon_biggrin:

[Jackalope]

aim your car away from anything....jack it up and put it on some stands...and put it in 2nd and let the tires rotate and such...still make noise? Got a stethoscope-on-a-stick so you can listen to things without going deaf? Not a bent axle?

More than likely you're first hunch is correct and go with the WB. Just thinking of anything else that maybe going on.

[BUNNYLOVE]

When an inner CV goes you can usually make the noise turn on an off by getting on an off the throttle, just going straight.
I would rotate your tires too, just in case you have a tire out of balance. See if the noise changes corners.

[lotar_6]

all good ideas! Thnx everybody! A WB is the cheapest... so I hope that's it. I may do the fronts anyway, b/c the entire front will be overhauled eventually (prolly once the Rado is back on the road). The easiest & cheapest will be a rotation, so CA bolts, another thorough inspection, oil change, and tire rotation are on the list for Saturday.

I read about the inner CV noise as described by Ryan on blauparts.com. If this is my issue, then the axle(s) will be sent to Marty for an overhaul. RAXLES FTW!!

[USOPHUNKE]

one other thing to check is loose plastic somewhere under the car.. my jetta made what sounded just like a bad wheel bearing and it ended up being plastic in the wind vibrating and getting worse with speed. it actually was the inner fender and when I went fast enough rubbed on the tire.. just another idea.

[lotar_6]

ok, so diagnosis reveals the WB's are ok, but the pass. side inner CV has play. Actually, both inner have play, but the pass side is notable while the driver's side is no worse than the rears. I found inner CV kits (including boots & grease) for $48 which is way cheaper than the outers. So, I'm gonna rebuild it since the down time will be a day compared to a week and $100 more for a RAXLES rebuild.

I was unable to get the pass. side rear CA bolt out, so I didn't get to lube it. The bolts I ordered from the stealer were delayed b/c of weather, so I didn't push it trying to get it out. They'll come out one way or another the next time I try! I think I'm gonna heed Adam's suggestion and try to keep the derlin bushings. All 3 of the other front bushings quieted down completely... just the rear pass. side acting up!! Probably due to over-torquing.

Also, I noticed my rear diff. bushing is shot!! I've noticed sloppiness in the rear while shifting, so I looked. I never bothered b4, b/c the po said they were done. right. So I've got a poly bushing ordered and side diff. mounts (and tranny mounts too) while I'm at it.

Last note... I got both the missing lower exterior trim on the driver's front fender and a wood shift knob for ~$30 shipped!!! I've started refinishing the shift knob but I have to wait 6 hours after each coat of poly, so I'll have pics and a finished product later this week.

[lotar_6]

So I chewed up another alt. belt last night! :mad: I just took my tools out of the car last week, too. :mad: 10 min's to replace, but I think I'm gonna replace the alt. mounting bolts. the lower bolt wasn't very tight so I think the tension on the adjusting bolt was more than usual. ah well...

Also, I finished up my knob re-conditioning last night! go ahead... laugh! But my polished knob looks pretty dam good imo! :laugh:

How I received it...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2227/2126230219_8a9458debb.jpg

Sanded and ready for stain...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2100/2126230257_47c22ee246.jpg

Stain makes a big difference...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2097/2126230309_f7fc352a0c.jpg

Finished with an oil based satin poly. I did satin b/c it's the oil poly I had. I didn't want to buy a pint to use 0.03021 oz.!...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2400/2126230271_f5fe4500a7.jpg

It took forever, b/c I needed 6 hours b/w coats of poly and I did 3 coats. Once it sits for 24 hours I can put the insert back in and get rid of the stoopid momo knob and it's allen screw attachment crap. I wouldn't mind the Momo so much if it were a direct fit (screw on type).

Anyway, I've got suspension components (bushings, ball joints, tie rods) on the way and will have it tightened up in no time! w00t!!

Then I've just gotta get back out to jay's for the keyless...

[FusLit]

looks awesome man!!! it turned out very nice.
-Todd

[BUNNYLOVE]

Very nice!

[All_for_Aria]

Very nice, Kyle. It's the little nuances, and the attention to detail that makes a car. This Coupe couldn't have ended up in better hands.

[lotar_6]

Thanks all! I've just been very fortunate that I'm able to attend to this rather than more serious issues. Here it is in the car..

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2081/2130435666_a6f33efe40.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2140/2130435732_f2a7b726f4.jpg


a pic from before...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2150/2040076743_7dd7291088.jpg

I'm happy. The po screwed those allen set screws straight into the threads of the shaft! :mad: I had to get the dremel out and clean them up a lil'. Works great now and no more wobbly shift knob!

Also, I snagged a set of 8" & 9" aftermarket mud flaps with "Audi" printed on them...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2263/2130435500_c3321fdc1a.jpg

I'm too low now to stick them on, but I hope to find some OE flaps anyway. I'm still looking.

also still waiting on most of my parts, but I did get this the other day...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2139/2130472516_1ce7d38002.jpg

rear diff bushing! yea.

[VWTUNING]

nice work Kyle!

[meatwad!!]

nice kyle.

[car_whore]

It looks like you have had some practice polishing your knob:wink: Where did you get the rear diff bushing and manual steering rack setup?

I need to convert to the manual setup and get rid of the hydraulic crap before I get even more frustrated at it. Once spring comes around my goal is to give the coupe an overhaul and convert to non hydraulic brakes and steering and attend to the many other issues it's developed this winter.

No update in two months I know you have to be doing something with this car.

[lotar_6]

No update in two months I know you have to be doing something with this car.

I'm driving it!! I haven't done much since the last update except replace the rear diff mounts and main bushing (see pic above) and replace the pass. front WB and inner CV joint. THANKS AGAIN, Pete & Kyle! The lift made doing the WB & CV much easier! Of course now I can hear the other side talking to me.... ug.

I do need to do the motor and tranny mounts as I can feel the sloppiness. I also have the ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway links to do... but I think I'm gonna wait until the Rado comes back out.

I can sell/trade you my manual rack... I've decided to keep the p/s. I got it from a guy in VT and I'll give it to you for what I have in it, or trade... but I'm looking for 12v parts now. The diff bushing I got from Powerflex (http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=powerflex&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=848339259&Count2=765479683) and was much cheaper than the 034 bushing!

So yeah... saving up for paint and I need to find a B4 Audi 90 bumper. Man it's hard having "2" project cars... I really don't know how you do it, Shawn!

[car_whore]

Well it's good to hear that you have been driving it with no major issues and that the other parts are starting to come together.

OK, we will have to work something out when the time comes. I have no 12v parts left, but hopefully by the time I'm ready to do this I will have some cash again. I'm going to wait until one of the other cars is on the road again.

I wish I could get back down to 2 projects. I have so many projects going on I get a little accomplished on each one until I'm bored and move onto the next without really finishing anything. This year my goal is to start finishing the cars one by one and either driving them or getting rid of them. I don't have a need for 10 cars even though I think I do.

[Sepp]

I gotta go back and read the whole post, but congrats. The coupe quattros are great cars, and really deserve someone to love them.

Wanna sell your seats???:smile:

[lotar_6]

I gotta go back and read the whole post, but congrats. The coupe quattros are great cars, and really deserve someone to love them.

Wanna sell your seats???:smile:

thanks! I'm digg'n it. :cool:

how much you got? :wink:

[Sepp]

how much you got? :wink:

hahaha

I'd consider you offer to trade my urQ for the seats, but satan has my soul in exchange for that car already.
:laugh:


Please keep me in mind, if you ditch the stockers for something else down the line.

[lotar_6]

so time flies...

I finally finished replacing the rear calipers, all brake hoses, brake hard lines, and fuel lines. man, that was harder than I thought it would be! Thanks to Todd for the bubble flare tool. I bought rolls of 3/16" and 5/16" line and went to town. I had to buy a better tube bender as the cheap one I got first broke....

http://i37.tinypic.com/kevw2u.jpg
http://i34.tinypic.com/a9qmau.jpg

I had to rent a IF tool to put in a splice for the charcoal vent line... it was just to long in the bay to pass a single line.

http://i36.tinypic.com/w2n1hi.jpg

The calipers came out pretty nice imo...

http://i36.tinypic.com/2mza002.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/10mkge8.jpg

and with the new rear calipers I have a working e-brake again! w00t! I took her out for a spin and I couldn't find any leaking. Of course I coated all the lines under the car w/ rubberized undercoating. I'll go over it all again tomorrow. I also had to make a bracket to replace an exhaust hanger that ripped off. Oh, and I fixed my odometer!! I found a w/u on replacing the tiny gear that fails...

http://i36.tinypic.com/2q3zvoh.jpg

It's funny how I've put the many issues out of my mind. I need to trace down a faulty ABS sensor (ideas?), tie rod ends, ball joints, sway links (if I can find them... argh), finish the remote keyless, paint the hood & fender, one last tranny mount, and fix exhaust leak b/w dp & cat. I need ideas on the dp cat issue. The plate on the dp is rusted badly and should be replaced. There is no room to move the cat back b/c of the room...

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2073/2083217165_f0f19c8850.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2089/2127007134_2fd4b91109.jpg

so that's it for now. let it snow!!! :cool:

[car_whore]

Looks good. I have to do pretty much all of that on mine:mad:

[allstarrme]

looking good on the brakes! They are a real pain to do anything with.

I saw a mid 90's 90 today at the east syracuse yard and was thinking man i need a coupe or 80 to put the B4 front end on.

[Jackalope]

Awesome Kyle get'r'race-ready

[lotar_6]

looking good on the brakes! They are a real pain to do anything with.

I saw a mid 90's 90 today at the east syracuse yard and was thinking man i need a coupe or 80 to put the B4 front end on.

yeah... I almost rebuilt the rear calipers, but decided against it b/c the separate e-brake cylinder is a PITA!! and running the brake lines was pretty easy compared to the larger diameter fuel lines.... ug.

Hey Jay... next time you are at the P&P, would you snag the B4 headlights for me, plz? My B3 lights don't line up w/ the hood & rad support and I'm too broke to buy good lights right now.

[iceVee]

Nice job on the lines. Recently I've been taking the lazier approach: Buying pre-flared lengths close to what I need and adding whatever extra bends are needed to make them work.

[FusLit]

Nicely done man! it turned out well.

I'll have to buy you a beer to celebrate :)

-T

[BUNNYLOVE]

Looks great! Do you always use teflon tape on the unions?

[lotar_6]

I almost did the pre-flared, but I always measure wrong. beer is yummy! and yeah... I'm anal. don't need the teflon, but I do it anyway.

[Jackalope]

yeah... I'm anal. don't need the teflon, but I'd do it anyway.

So it is true?!...:laugh:

[lotar_6]

no homo

[VRsuper6]

http://i36.tinypic.com/2q3zvoh.jpg


teehee, smiley...

billy madison quote :smile:

[flutnie]

LOWER IT!!!!!:cool:

[lotar_6]

it is a happy gear set-up.

LOWER IT!!!!!:cool:

lol! it's as low as I will go on this car. the plans are to raise it, actually...

[lotar_6]

ok... so I finally did some much needed maintenance. Over the past couple days I replaced the front ball joints, outer tie rod ends, driver wheel bearing, and driver inner CV joint. I did the WB & CV joint on the pass. side last year and been meaning to do the other side for some time. Everything went smoothly barring one major brain fart. When doing the pass. side ball joint, I forgot to take the axle bolt out. I ended up pulling the inner CV apart! DOH!!

http://i38.tinypic.com/9j3tr5.jpg

Luckily the balls stayed in place in the carrier. It only took me a few hours to figure out how to put it back properly. After I figured out the outer and inner tapers install opposite each other, it was just a matter of figuring out the tapers were all the same spacing. Luckily I had the old joint and the new joint for the driver's side to help...

http://i37.tinypic.com/2vrvrtc.jpg

now it's off for an alignment and should be back by Friday... yippee!! now for some more snow...

[allstarrme]

I grabbed the drivers side B4 headlight for you, the PS was cracked.

[Dan McBoost]

Just spent some time going through this topic. Love what you are doing man. I do love those old audis (grew up with them). Someday the A6A just may get replaced by a coupe...

[lotar_6]

I grabbed the drivers side B4 headlight for you, the PS was cracked.

Very cool! Thanks, J! pm sent

Just spent some time going through this topic. Love what you are doing man. I do love those old audis (grew up with them). Someday the A6A just may get replaced by a coupe...

thanks, Dan! It's not the prettiest, and it kinda feels it's age... but I'm getting there. I grew up w/ a dad into old British sports cars, namely MG's. If you think VAG cars need maintenance.... I will say that parts for these cars are scarce and expensive, so consider that. Just look for a southern one. I'm soooo sick of rust.

[B4passatglx]

Your putting B4 Passat headlights on it your Audi? They fit?

I think I may still have my stock B4 Passat lights in my grandparents garage

[allstarrme]

Your putting B4 Passat headlights on it your Audi? They fit?

no, no B4 Audi headlights, the ones where the hood comes down and has the grille in it is a B4 Audi, but the same platform as the earlier B3. just because the B5 audi platforms overlaps the VW one doesn't mean the rest of them do.

[lotar_6]

yeah, the coupe came only in the B3 platform...

http://www.audiworld.com/model/coupequattro/pix/90-coupe.jpg

a common swap is to the B4 hood, rad support, headlights, and lower headlight trim...

http://www.channel4.com/4car/media/classics/A/audi/03-large/audi-coupe-1992.jpg

The second pic is actually an S2 swap for the front bumper and different lights, too. but yeah, B3/B4 Audi is different than VW. I am thinking of putting on a B3 or 4 Passat bumper, tho!

[SilverCQ]

Well I finally got through most of your thread, looks like your starting out the right way, gotta get all the maintenance out of the way before playin :)

If ya ever have any questions or want/need some help let me know, ithacas only an hour from me, and one of my good friends who helps me out a lot with my coupe lives in hartford and works in ithaca every day. He's got a b3 80q that we're putting an aeb 1.8t into starting next week :)

[lotar_6]

haha... yeah... I'll get to performance once I'm satisfied w/ the Rado. So theoretically, never! :laugh:

I do have new wheels that I need to refinish and get rubber. They'll be my Rally-x wheels/tires. I do want to raise the car a bit, so I'm thinking the GC coilover bodies on Bilsteins. Definitely will be asking for suggestions there.

I keep waiting for my bomb to explode. I'm dreading shelling out the $$ for the vacuum brake booster 034 sells. I need to hunt for the parts list again and see if I can piece it together instead. Also, I have a Fox manual steering rack, but I think I'm going to go the electric steering pump route. I've read that MR2's have an electric pump that will work. I just don't think I'll enjoy it w/ a manual rack.

Beyond that, I'm skeered by the injectors. I'd love to swap a VR in someday, so I'd hate to dump money on the adapters for short-term use. IDK... it's looking like I'm not gonna do much w/ it for several years... other than keep it running. It's been a great car for me, but it's just a toy / winter beater. I'd rather spend my time & money on the Rado.

[SilverCQ]

Yah, gc's and bilsteins are a good combo, if your worried about the bomb, just find a b4 90 in a junk yard somewhere and buy all the brake booster stuff off that...that's all 034's kit is. And that's all mine is, I grabbed the rack and vaccum stuff out of a b4 parts car I had.

As for the injectors...if ur not ready for a swap anytime soon, I'd say 034's kit is the best thing u could do for a small performance gain and some better reliability

[car_whore]

Kyle, I have the 034 injector kit on mine and it does make it run a bit better, but if you don't want to go that route and do end up with injector issues let me know because I saved my old Hitachi's just in case.

[lotar_6]

Yah, gc's and bilsteins are a good combo, if your worried about the bomb, just find a b4 90 in a junk yard somewhere and buy all the brake booster stuff off that...that's all 034's kit is. And that's all mine is, I grabbed the rack and vaccum stuff out of a b4 parts car I had.

good to know about the vacuum booster... i'll be keeping an eye out.

Kyle, I have the 034 injector kit on mine and it does make it run a bit better, but if you don't want to go that route and do end up with injector issues let me know because I saved my old Hitachi's just in case.

sweet! hopefully it won't come to that, but you never know.

[kabinotar]

One of the first things I was planning on doing to mine once it gets running is the injector kit.