B4passatglx
05-30-2007, 06:05 PM
I performed this test on a VR6T with C2 4 inch MAF housing, this test will work on any sized inlet as long as you can get the right size end cap.
Parts:
4" PVC end cap
1/4" threaded brass barbed fitting
hose
clamp
Vaccume pump (testing diverter valve)
vac/boost gauge
soapy water in spray bottle
1. drill the end cap and thread in the brass fitting. If its snug no epoxy or glue is needed to make it air tight. Push hose on fitting and clamp tight to prevent leaks.
2. Take off your MAF housing and place end cap in place of MAF.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y114/jressman/VRT014.jpg
3. If equipped with a recirculating diverter valve unplug the discharge on the valve and cap off.
4. Install a boost gauge somewhere in the motor where its visible.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y114/jressman/VRT012.jpg
5. Push air compressor air nozzle in the hose coming off the end cap.
6. Pressurize system with compressor. Listen for leaks. Spray conjunctions and gasket areas with soapy water.
7. To test diverter valve. Unplug the vaccume feed, (I used the vaccume source for the diverter valve for the boost gauge) Hook up the vaccume pump. Squeeze pump and the valve should release making a loud hiss sound.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y114/jressman/VRT013.jpg
I discovered that my diverter valve opens up 10psi and will not allow anything in excess of 10psi. Time to get a Forge 007 valve
I found out that I had a boost leak at the diverter valve flange, and also by my throttle body. I also noted that I devolped a leak at the intercooler couplers as the pipes sat in the sun and got hot. Thermal expansion I guess. I used this as a good opportunity to re tighten all clamps.
Anyone can borrow my end cap setup if they want too!
Parts:
4" PVC end cap
1/4" threaded brass barbed fitting
hose
clamp
Vaccume pump (testing diverter valve)
vac/boost gauge
soapy water in spray bottle
1. drill the end cap and thread in the brass fitting. If its snug no epoxy or glue is needed to make it air tight. Push hose on fitting and clamp tight to prevent leaks.
2. Take off your MAF housing and place end cap in place of MAF.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y114/jressman/VRT014.jpg
3. If equipped with a recirculating diverter valve unplug the discharge on the valve and cap off.
4. Install a boost gauge somewhere in the motor where its visible.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y114/jressman/VRT012.jpg
5. Push air compressor air nozzle in the hose coming off the end cap.
6. Pressurize system with compressor. Listen for leaks. Spray conjunctions and gasket areas with soapy water.
7. To test diverter valve. Unplug the vaccume feed, (I used the vaccume source for the diverter valve for the boost gauge) Hook up the vaccume pump. Squeeze pump and the valve should release making a loud hiss sound.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y114/jressman/VRT013.jpg
I discovered that my diverter valve opens up 10psi and will not allow anything in excess of 10psi. Time to get a Forge 007 valve
I found out that I had a boost leak at the diverter valve flange, and also by my throttle body. I also noted that I devolped a leak at the intercooler couplers as the pipes sat in the sun and got hot. Thermal expansion I guess. I used this as a good opportunity to re tighten all clamps.
Anyone can borrow my end cap setup if they want too!