Spark Plugs?

[CuseBora]

its about that time. The jetta is just about to roll over to 60k so i figured id do some maintenance that i never get around to doing. Im planning on doing the fuel filter, new air and cabin filter, and spark plugs. My question is what spark plugs would work best for a chipped 1.8T? i did a vortex search and found about a thousand different opinions. I also found something about for every 50 hp over stock you need a different gap in the plug itself? im confused...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[boostin20v]

NGK BKR7E gaped to .028"

[CuseBora]

i would assume those can be found at a local store?

[crew219]

The BKR7Es are copper plugs which should be changed every 5k. The OEM plug is the NGK PFR6Q, and IMO as long as you're on the stock turbo, you're fine using that. The PFR6Q is a double platinum which will last significantly longer than the BKR7E. BKR7Es haven't shown any indication of CF reduction so I wouldn't bother using the "7"s over the "6"s. I'd gap at somewhere between stock .032 and .028.

Dave

[CuseBora]

yeah ive been chipped for about 40 k and its still running stock plugs and gap. And it seems to be performing fine. And yes i am on stock turbo, so i was figuring just doing an OEM replacement.

[boostin20v]

If you are not having issues with the OE plugs then the OE heat range might work for you. Most find that the colder plug is of benifit though. As for having to swap the copper plugs ever 5k or so, for ~7-10 bucks per oil change its not a very expensive issue to insure your car is running the best it can.

Also be completely sure you are torquing your plugs correctly otherwise you could find yourself dealing with the coils popping off and dealing with misfires.

[indyfab302]

The BKR7Es are copper plugs which should be changed every 5k.

Dave

Really... that often? I've got about 12K on my BKR6E and thought 15K was the replacement interval on them. I'm currently experiencing no ill effects...

[RichB]

I found the NGKs at both pep boys and autozone.... Autozone had both the NGK BKRE7s and BKRE6's, so I got them there. Next spring I will give the BKRE7s a try and see how the car runs on them next summer.

I do think you can easily go further than 5K on the copper NGKs.... have read many reports of people running them well past 10,000 miles without problem. Now, while I personally would not run them that long, I do think you can safely go seven or eight or as much as ten thousand miles on them. If you put 12K or more miles on your car each year (and if your car is pretty much stock except for the chip), I would stick with the stock plugs (maybe gap them a bit tighter than .032) so you are not changing plugs a couple times per year. I DO worry about excess movement of the coil pack wiring harness (from repeated removing of the coil packs) as the insulation on the wires going to the coil pack connectors has known to get brittle... excess movement of this can only aggravate that problem if your wires are heading in that direction.

[crew219]

Really... that often? I've got about 12K on my BKR6E and thought 15K was the replacement interval on them. I'm currently experiencing no ill effects...

Pete seems to notice consistently better performance if he changes every 5k versus the 8k interval he tried before. The first time he ran the BKR6Es (when I first met him), 8k later he was getting random misfires and the center electrode appeared to be slightly worn. Since then he's stuck to the 5k intervals.

He's running X chip + testpipe & evo intake.

Dave

[crew219]

Forgot to mention . . . . Chris also seemed to have issues after the 5k mark with the BKR6Es on his REVO SII chipped 1.8t, back when he had the stock turbo.

Dave

[RichB]

Forgot to mention . . . . Chris also seemed to have issues after the 5k mark with the BKR6Es on his REVO SII chipped 1.8t, back when he had the stock turbo.



I wonder if driving style has any influence on this? Does more time spent in boost (higher heat, higher boost/cylinder pressures) mean more wear on the the plugs (no just thinking about rpms here... i.e. More time spent at higher rpms - more times the plug fires - hence more wear), this causing an higher required change interval???

I am thinking that it would have to have some effect, but as to how significant that effect is, I have no experience/data to quantify that.

[CuseBora]

just went to the stealership on lunch and grabbed the OE plugs and fuel filter. I havent had any problems yet in either of my chipped 1.8t's running the OE plugs, so im figuring these will be just fine. Now I get to have fun putting them in tonight...

[Shiftn4Dubs]

OK hmmm been following the thread, and I decided to chime it.

When I got the GTI the plugs indicated, that it was running lean, (Blistered, white insulator, ect.. So I fixed some vacuum leaks and idle probs. installed Platinum Bosch WR70P's, Drove it three weeks, and Tonight I removed the Bosch's to give NGK (BP6ES) and when I pulled out the Bosch's they were almost RED looking (Insulator and electrode) Way to RED to even be close to Brown or even Greyish-Tan, (which would be normal ware) Also I have no indications of Carbon Deposits, but they are Dry and Sooty, which would indicate running rich or weak Ignition, causing hard starts and misfires and hesitation. SO fixing the Vacuum leaks I went from LEAN to RICH, with out touching the Fuel Mixture, just fiddled with the Idle Bypass Screw Thingy, but opening that up more would let more AIR in resulting in running LEAN, but I'm running RICH now?

EDIT: OK I just re-read this rambling and I basically answered my own question.

Any Thoughts?

[crew219]

OK hmmm been following the thread, and I decided to chime it.

When I got the GTI the plugs indicated, that it was running lean, (Blistered, white insulator, ect.. So I fixed some vacuum leaks and idle probs. installed Platinum Bosch WR70P's, Drove it three weeks, and Tonight I removed the Bosch's to give NGK (BP6ES) and when I pulled out the Bosch's they were almost RED looking (Insulator and electrode) Way to RED to even be close to Brown or even Greyish-Tan, (which would be normal ware) Also I have no indications of Carbon Deposits, but they are Dry and Sooty, which would indicate running rich or weak Ignition, causing hard starts and misfires and hesitation. SO fixing the Vacuum leaks I went from LEAN to RICH, with out touching the Fuel Mixture, just fiddled with the Idle Bypass Screw Thingy, but opening that up more would let more AIR in resulting in running LEAN, but I'm running RICH now?

EDIT: OK I just re-read this rambling and I basically answered my own question.

Any Thoughts?

You choose strange plugs to run.

Dave

[Shiftn4Dubs]

What Plugs would you reccomend for a 86' 8v 1.8L?

[meatwad!!]

diesil plugs.

[Shiftn4Dubs]

meatwad that is a great idea, cant beleive I didnt think of that.

[Shiftn4Dubs]

OK I had an old set of diesil plugs laying around and put them in, well I think they went it right, they seem a bit crooked (I would under stand if they were all tilting the same way but they are tilting in diff. directions) and I'm not sure if the plug wires fit right, it wont start now!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :mad: :frown: :mad:

[Shiftn4Dubs]

How to I get these Plugs out now?

[Shiftn4Dubs]

Hey MeatWad!!!! You seeing this?










PS: This never happened! ha!

[CLUTCH]

If you realy want to try the NGK BKR7E (Race plug, one range colder)
*avoid BKR7E-11 as the factory gap is too large, .042*

Go to the Polaris dealer on RT11 in Cicero they carry them. I have not yet found them at any local store, only at the polaris dealer.

[BUNNYLOVE]

shiftn4dubs- The red is probably from an octane booster. Have you used one?
I would use a regular platinum plug in the factory heat range if you don't want to mess with them for a long time and you are not running forced induction. If you are going to change them out frequently go with Bosch supers (copper) or NGK coppers.
In anything I'm going to push hard, IE triple stock HP, etc. I use plain old NGK copper plugs. I've never had an issue with them.

[crew219]

If you realy want to try the NGK BKR7E (Race plug, one range colder)
*avoid BKR7E-11 as the factory gap is too large, .042*

Go to the Polaris dealer on RT11 in Cicero they carry them. I have not yet found them at any local store, only at the polaris dealer.

There is nothing "Race" about the NGK BKR7E . . . it is a plain copper plug.

NAPA and Advance either stock them or will special order them for you.

Dave

[CLUTCH]

race or not, They are one range colder (spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber).

here's some more info.

http://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/1541554.phtml

[Shiftn4Dubs]

shiftn4dubs- The red is probably from an octane booster. Have you used one?



You Rock Man!!!!!!!!! Yes I have, "104" been trying to clean out the fuel system.

Thanks BunnyLove!!!!

[Shiftn4Dubs]

Old thread, I know but I have new info to add...

Posted by BunnyLove
I use plain old NGK copper plugs. I've never had an issue with them.

Yeah I have noticed a big difference, I ran those Bosch iridium plugs for a month and they gave me cold start problems, and I noticed it ran sluggish/ and less power period, I put the old, not even new NGK coppers back in and the Cold start problem went away and the car is not sluggish any longer, and when its dry out I will run all the gears past 5000rpms and see if that had an impact on my power loss after 5000rpms (http://www.fastdubs.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11439). :err:


PS: yes the plugs were gapped properly :rofl:

[wolfs99]

How about http://www.densoiridium.com/

http://www.densoiridium.com/find_part.php